London-based designer Kiko Kostadinov is constantly holding some of the best runway shows at Paris Fashion Week. Much like his Fall/Winter 2023 womenswear showcase, Kostadinov returns to academic grounds for Spring/Summer 2024 menswear. Once again, the designer welcomed guests into Paris’ Lycée Henri-IV public secondary school, where they sat at wooden desks used by schoolboys prior. The walls were lined with caged bookshelves, while discarded chairs were pilled up high at the entrance where backstage and runway collided into one.
Thus, school bells tolled in commencement of Kiko Kostadinov SS24. The designer wished to honor the students who came before him through a modern collection embodying various pupil personalities. As such, asymmetrical suiting had removed collars and shining sun embroidery alongside ruffled florals that grew at the neck. Models walked the runway wearing sheer hair nets and pale white makeup inspired by drama students on-call.
Pleated wool coats donned ribbon detailing with a three-dimensional finish, moving slowly alongside zippered bodysuits with a bedtime aura. Elsewhere, punctured knitwear was paired with cargo-style leather trousers in vibrant yellow, while charming striped cardigans arrived in pink and green for comfortable all-day learning. Finally, essential shirting was kept straightforward alongside ordinary blazer uniforms illuminated with semi-exposed satin lapels.
Speaking exclusively to Hypebeast about the collection, Kostadinov said:
“My team and I always try to make stuff — obviously to fill the purpose of a seasonal collection — but also inviting people to see clothes that I would like to wear. Sometimes it might be boring (never), but I try to design garments that I need in my wardrobe.
This season, we changed our date on the schedule from Sunday to Saturday, and coming back to the school environment would maintain a sense of familiarity. I always try to grow instead of making a big impact straight away, and being here at Lycée Henri-IV influences me to think about students.
The collection is all about these young actors studying to be drama students and are in the middle of their performance or have been performing all day (hence the makeup). I tried to step into their shoes and portray them in different stages throughout their day. Let’s say that when they came into school, they were wearing their uniform, and then they change into their gowns underneath or more formal looks that are like a costume.”
Take a look at Kiko Kostadinov SS24 in the gallery above, and find more Paris Fashion Week SS24 content on Hypebeast.
In case you missed it, 3.PARADIS’ SS24 runway debut was bold and unafraid.