Stefano Pilati's Random Identities Is Back With a Bang for SS23

Stefano Pilati‘s Random Identities has been quietly working away in the background, and now it is back for Spring/Summer 2023. Like previous collections, such as Fall/Winter 2020’s Pitti Uomo presentation or SS21’s DOMESTIC (between wars) film, Random Identities explores a contemporary sartorial wardrobe subverted with a Berliner’s edge, taking formal clothing and giving it either awkward shapes, sexy reveals, or a mixture of both.

For example, menswear essentials like overalls are recontextualized with voyeurism, as the one-piece converts into a more feminine pantsuit that’s triangular and sharply darted on the front and deeply scooped at the rear, revealing the buttock like a pair of Lee Alexander McQueen “bumsters.”

Paired with a cropped tailored “Spencer” jacket, the bum is only revealed (when it traditionally-contextually shouldn’t be) even more. On the topic of tailoring, we find a range of jackets and blazers in gaberdine, with some featuring scalloped plackets and others opting for an ’80s power fit. Either way, they all pair well underneath the “Animalier Jaguar” faux fur coat, which is egg-shaped to give the back a protruding amount of volume.

Likewise, we find shirting in a similar bulbous formation, which emulates the curvaceous takes on classic coats such as a black quilted offering and a tweed overcoat. Skirts continue the round shapes, billowing at the side before falling into pleats, in turn also inspiring a range of slim-fitting tailored pleated trousers.

Random Identities SS23 is a largely genderless collection, but definitely one that pushes the boundaries of what traditional menswear can be. The result is contemporary and clean, with everything looking just as it should until further inspection. From added epaulets to folds and pleats in unusual places, the collection is created to both distort and accentuate the body — and for that, Random Identities is back on top form.

Take a look at the collection in the lookbook above, and purchase everything from Random Identities’ website now, as well as retailers such as Dover Street Market.

Elsewhere in the DSM world, take a look at its exclusive release of the Cecilie Bahnsen x ASICS GEL-NYC collaboration.