Whether it be spring, summer, fall or winter, there is one thing that remains constant about Joey Gollish’s label Mr. Saturday. It is continued combinational reverence and exploration of high-moment in culture. The Toronto-based brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 show popped the lid on the history of European cabaret with its “Sex & Politics: Shadow Play At Le Chat Noir” runway show. Now for the Fall/Winter 2023 season, Mr. Saturday kept its feet in Europe but headed over to France to explore the rich history of Paris’ Les Bains Douches nightclub.
With guests the likes of Mick Jagger, Yves Saint Laurent and Grace Jones, if the underground nightclub’s walls could talk there’d undeniably be a caliber of rich stories to tell. Along this line, Gollish’s FW23 “Dans Les Bains” collection specifically explores the club’s prominence in the 70s and 80s. Aptly channeling the club’s celebration of liberation and creative expression, Gollish takes a down to Earth approach to crafting his latest collection. Inciting glamour remains a key driver, but what stands out is Gollish’s restructure of attainable and fluid allure.
With typical gendered dress notes taking a backseat, collection garments harbor a universally unisex cadence and take form through fused class lines. Gollish’s contemporary view of enchantment for this season sees the old and new joining hands. Outwear pieces come to life through texturally eye-catching fabrications like shearling and faux-fur varieties. These elements of vintage glam extend to leather pants that are finished off with shearling detailing. Elsewhere in the collection ribbed knitwear, calm quarter-zip pullovers and relaxed pants reveal that dressing for a night out can also be comfortable.
“Beyond being an untouchable haven in the Golden Age of Paris (and global) nightlife, Les Bains Douches also represents something very important to my work: an arena for free-flowing and spontaneous acts of creation – hosting everything from impromptu performances by Prince, to a live album by Joy Division, to early shows by a (then) unknown Depeche Mode,” said Gollish. “Les Bains Douches at 7 Rue du Bourg l’Abbé, since its construction, has acted as an incubator for creatives that went on to inspire generations of creatives to come.”
Standout pieces from the collection include oversized cotton ballon pants alongside a black calfskin leather trucker jacket with coordinating pants and shearling lining details.
Take a look at the collection in the gallery and video above.
In other fashion news, The Row Fall 2023 is a masterclass in understated luxury.