Appointed in April 2016, Anthony Vaccarello has seeped into the reigns of his role as creative director at Saint Laurent. The Parisian luxury label has long been synonymous with sensuality, and Vaccarello has honored its 61-year aesthetic while constantly integrating his minimalistic flair. For Fall 2022, Saint Laurent took to the streets of Paris with a showcase submerged in a romantic breeze. In the menswear department, the label recently traveled to the Agafay desert with a collection emblazoned in sharp tailoring and tantalizing motifs. For Spring/Summer 2023, Saint Laurent has kept antics in its home base delivering a runway show that is not to be missed.
Backdropped by none other than the Eiffel Tower itself, Saint Laurent took to the spectacularly dramatic Jardins du Trocadéro and Fontaine de Varsovie. Black wooden chairs positioned with the utmost precision bordered the main fountain, it lit in soft lighting matching the customary YSL statue afar — simultaneously becoming a step and repeat for stars like Kate Moss, Amber Valletta and various K-pop stars. It was a ceremonial affair, complete with stadium lights around the perimeter and waterworks on full display. The tone, thus, was locked in for a show-stopper runway, with the crowd already ganging together to decide that this was one of YSL’s prettiest shows to date under Vaccarello’s helm.
In usual form, YSL was grand and opulent, with orchestral music playing as models took to the marble steps. Jackets in leather everywhere you look, it was quintessential of the house, but a welcoming array of hooded dresses and a coat built with exaggerated shoulders ushered in a new kind of sexy glamor. It became more upbeat and in turn sophisticated, a collection fit for the nights in Paris as it was shown. Coats were floor length, dresses were fitted and cut from the finest qualities — something we could see even from our seat.
There were a lot of similarities in the looks, but it showed versatility within the brand if anything. Day to night, business to date. Particular standouts include a black leather trench, dark in its intrigue and mystique, and perfectly fitting as the final look to a show full of allure and suspense-building silhouettes.
Take a look at the SS23 show from Saint Laurent above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week SS23 content.
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