Anthony Vaccarello Drapes Saint Laurent in Gold for SS27
The hypnotic collection celebrates Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite hue while sparking exit rumors at the Trocadéro.
Summary
Anthony Vaccarello presented the Saint Laurent Women's Summer 2027 collection enveloped entirely in shades of gold and deep black
The range reinterprets iconic house archetypes including sahariennes trenches blouses and strong-shouldered tailoring through metallic fabrications
A grand presentation at the Trocadéro and a poignant closing gesture fueled widespread industry speculation regarding Vaccarello's potential departure from the house
Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello has unveiled the Women’s Spring/Summer 2027 Collection in Paris, taking over the iconic Trocadéro beneath the Eiffel Tower. Centered entirely around the transformative power of gold—a shade famously adored by Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent—the presentation explores the house’s archival codes through an intense, monochromatic lens.
Vaccarello built the lineup by gilding foundational Saint Laurent archetypes across multiple decades. Classic sahariennes, trench coats, fluid blouses, and wrap skirts were shown alongside contemporary house signatures, such as voluminous blousons, razor-sharp suits edged with fur, and structured coats. The vast spectrum of gold—ranging from pale and Byzantine to matte, burnished, and Brutalist—was brought to life through lamé, organza, guipure lace, mousseline, brocade, jacquard, and gold-leaf-coated latex.
The gilded theme extended seamlessly into the accessories, featuring filigree earrings and footwear constructed from metallic chains set atop snake-shaped heels. In the collection’s final sequence, the luminous gold gave way to dramatic black velvet tailoring and nimbus cloud evening gowns.
The sheer scale of the Trocadéro takeover, combined with a intimate closing moment where Vaccarello walked the runway and handed what appeared to be a key to a young boy in the audience, sparked widespread industry speculation that the show signaled his official exit from Saint Laurent.
