Thom Browne SS23 Collection Fetishizes Punk

Highlighting accessories including jockstraps and anchor-shaped face coverings.

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As the first look of Thom Browne makes its way down the runway of the show, audiences immediately know that they are in for a ride. The initial thought might hear the phrase, “Welcome to the Thom Browne Show,” as models in ultra-short shorts make their way through the audience. The show started off with a spectacle as clients take their seats at the Thom Browne salon. While the show waits for no one, models dressed in full Thom Browne-esque outfits come bursting in, finding their seats. Audiences receive a theatrical introduction to the collection as the real show begins.

This Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection brings tweeds of all colors including grey with yellow and green and blue with pink and light blue. The season brings the full package, with the classic Thom Browne fitted tailoring, but this time, with a twist. The label continues to blur the lines between masculinity and feminity, bringing forward classically feminine fabrics to construct classically masculine shapes. Tweed suiting are paired with suggestive underpinnings from the jockstrap accessory that left little to the imagination. Embroideries focused on the ultimate preppy symbol, which saw the anchor as a facial piece and stitched into the tweed blazers.

Men wore mini shorts and cropped skirts that rested as low rise on their waists. Dropped crotches and sleevless silhouettes were a core component to the collection as Thom Browne introduced his summer cotton twills. The collection continues to modernize traditional suiting with its expansive and much more riské SS23 collection. With models walking in spiked punk-inspired hair, this season fetishizes the classic upscale look, bringing an additional excitement to classic tailoring.

Take a scroll above at the exclusive backstage first look at Thom Browne’s SS23 collection during Paris Fashion Week.

In case you missed it, NIGO continues to honor the real-to-wear ethos for KENZO SS23.

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Joyce Li
Joyce Li Editor

For over half a decade, Joyce Li has served as an Editor on Hypebeast's global team, leveraging profound industry insights to capture the zeitgeist. Through her editorial lens, she anticipates emerging trends while dedicating her platform to spotlighting those making the greatest impact on culture today. A storyteller first and foremost, she examines the cross-pollination of fashion, footwear, art, music, and sports. This intersectional approach has led to compelling interviews with industry-defining figures like LeBron James, Pharrell Williams, Tom Brady, NIGO, A$AP Rocky, KAWS, and more.

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