For his men’s resort 2022 offering, Thom Browne fuses tradition with provocateur — melding sharp-tailored formalwear and timeless fabrics with silhouettes celebrating traditionally feminine elements.
“Over the past three or four years, I’ve been exploring the idea of putting men in stereotypically women’s clothes,” Browne told WWD. “It has become normal to me. There are almost as many skirts and dresses as trousers in this collection. It just feels natural and right and authentic to the collection.”
The gender-blurring range matches age-old American sack suits with whimsical, pleated kilts and draping ponchos across upscale textiles, including gingham-clad wool seersucker, madras plaid, intarsia and cotton-linen blends.
The designer’s quintessential grey, white, black, and navy tones encapsulate the line, while streaks of red call for attention throughout. Checkered double-breasted suit jackets land in tandem with similarly clad shorts and skirts, while expeditionary, monochromatic assemblages let accompanying sailor and propeller hats do the talking.
“I have zero interest in designing a collection that is casual,” he said. “The idea of casual clothes is just not that interesting.”
Though formal, the collection still boasts a fanciful youthfulness — a reiterated bag shaped like Browne’s dachshund, Hector, is streamlined into an airplane-crossover construction, while kite and propeller plane motifs are embellished atop suit jackets.
Take a look at the full collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere in fashion, Kim Jones unveiled a sporty Dior Men’s resort 2022 range, fueled by the style codes of the label’s former creative director, Marc Bohan.