Martine Rose Redefines Classic Menswear Ideas in SS21 Collection

The new lookbook mixes inspiration from football culture, business suits and San Francisco in the 1970s.

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After debuting the collection in September last year, London designer Martine Rose has now given an up-close look at her Spring/Summer 2021 collection. Taking influence from hyper masculine uniforms — ranging from sports kits to banker’s suits — the collection deconstructs and rewrites these visual codes.

Football culture features prominently in the collection, with jerseys and polo shirts referencing football kits while stripes appear on jackets and shirts. Rose has also altered tailoring for the collection, changing the cut and fit of suits and shirts to give a glimpse of lingerie beneath. By reversing the stereotype of business-wear and tailoring, Rose allows a look at “deviant, kinky dressing,” which is also seen through lace camisoles, garter belts and suspenders and even stockings made to look like football socks.

Another inspiration comes from photographs of San Francisco’s underground gay scene in the 1970s. These images were discovered by Rose while working with rave historian Steve Terry, and are referenced through psychedelic floral denim, all-leather looks in acid yellow and black moc-croc textured leather.

Additionally Rose continues to develop motifs that have appeared in previous collections. The SEX belt makes a return, while the designer’s classic signature logo appears on T-shirts and hoodies, and the beermat graphic — recently seen in a Stüssy collaboration — is used on a matching set.

Take a look through the new lookbook in the gallery above. The first pieces from Martine Rose’s SS21 collection are available now from the Martine Rose web store.

In other fashion news, fellow London-based designer Ahluwalia has revealed a short film for Fall/Winter 2021.

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