Dramatic Layering Informs Kiko Kostadinov's Pared-Back FW21 Silhouettes

Inspired by food, virtual reality and flower arrangement.

By
Fashion
3,612 Hypes 3 Comments

Drawing from niche sources like Christopher Priest’s A Dream of Wessex and Patience Grey’s Honey From A Weed, Kiko Kostadinov‘s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is no less progressive than the Britain-based designer’s past efforts. Densely layered and rich with texture, the new collection runs lateral to menswear conventions, shaping the human form with stacked knitwear, figure-hugging shirts and Kostadinov’s signature pooled trousers.

Kostadinov’s next-generation uniforms fused sporty elements — like cycling tops, track jackets and panels of technical textiles — with some hints of traditional craft, framing his models with rounded shoulders, raw hems and flowing pajama sets. Striking patterns range from contrasting stripes to a series of colorful florals which draw from both Grey’s culinary work and a warped perception of Japanese ikebana (flower arranging), starkly juxtaposed against the other tones of chilly shadow and earthy brown.

English heritage was inverted throughout, as Kostadinov bent Saville Row suits, peacoats, cricket jackets, militaristic flight suits and Wellington boots to his will. Familiar shapes were interrupted by arm warmers, aprons, jersey gilets and laces borrowed from Belgian folk costumes, acquiring a rough-hewn elegance by way of the uppermost layers’ gracefully flow and the trousers’ gentle billow.

“It was much the same as with past seasons; questioning what I want to say as a designer, not just as a concept or meaning but also how this translates into an object,” Kostadinov told HYPEBEAST of his FW21 collection. “Quarantine slowed things for everyone and became the reality. The slowness allowed more time for stillness and thinking.”

“We’re still developing our own mainline footwear language and how it can fit into our seasonal stories,” he continued. “This season the footwear is more chunky with an outdoor feeling, staying more on the generic side to avoid clashes with the rest of the outfits, and playing more on different textured materials and front closures.”

Visit Kiko Kostadinov’s website to behold a dynamic triptych presentation that undermines stagnant on-model imagery.

As Digital Fashion Month, HYPEBEAST recently recapped some of the standout shows from the event.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Pared-Back Tailoring and Workwear Galvanize Lemaire FW21
Fashion

Pared-Back Tailoring and Workwear Galvanize Lemaire FW21

The co-ed collection is loose, loungey and multi-purpose.

Han Kjøbenhavn Showcases Dramatic Silhouettes in FW21 Collection
Fashion

Han Kjøbenhavn Showcases Dramatic Silhouettes in FW21 Collection

Marking its third consecutive season at Milan Fashion Week.

LĒO FW21 Promises Dramatically-Dyed Dual-Purpose Apparel
Fashion

LĒO FW21 Promises Dramatically-Dyed Dual-Purpose Apparel

Relaxed genderfluid looks from former Balenciaga intern Leonneke Derksen.


WOOYOUNGMI FW21 Informs a Fantastical Reimagining of the Dress Codes for the Great Outdoors
Fashion

WOOYOUNGMI FW21 Informs a Fantastical Reimagining of the Dress Codes for the Great Outdoors

A co-ed collection that consistently draws on the distinctive South Korean style energy.

Soundtrack Your Home Repairs to the Tune of 'Red Dead Redemption 2'
Music

Soundtrack Your Home Repairs to the Tune of 'Red Dead Redemption 2'

A new EP will feature five unreleased tracks including “The Housebuilding Song”: a fan-favorite from the game’s epilogue.

Jason H. Lee Unveils Massive Portraits of Virgil Abloh, Travis Scott and More
Arts

Jason H. Lee Unveils Massive Portraits of Virgil Abloh, Travis Scott and More

Exploring themes of glorification and consumerism.

Carnival and ASICS Reunite for Vibrant Gel-Kayano 5 360 Collaboration
Footwear

Carnival and ASICS Reunite for Vibrant Gel-Kayano 5 360 Collaboration

Building upon the two parties’ collaborative GEL-DS Trainer OG “Muay Thai” from 2019.


Add Luxury to Any Meal With TRUFF's Truffle Mayo and Spicy Truffle Mayo
Food & Beverage

Add Luxury to Any Meal With TRUFF's Truffle Mayo and Spicy Truffle Mayo

Putting its umami-packed spin on America’s no.1 condiment.

Nike ACG SS21 Revels in Multi-Purpose Trek Gear
Fashion

Nike ACG SS21 Revels in Multi-Purpose Trek Gear

Slick outerwear, convertible pants and adjustable accessories.

Emerging Label Street Katz Invites New Fans to Join Its Community
Fashion 

Emerging Label Street Katz Invites New Fans to Join Its Community

Presented by Street Katz
Introducing a new clothing brand that gives emerging creatives a sartorial platform.

More ▾
 
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Adblock Detected.

We charge advertisers instead of our readers. If you enjoy our content, please add us to your adblocker's whitelist. We'd really appreciated it.