This season, Martens delivers a masterclass in asymmetric structuring, blurring the lines of the ordinary and expected. Challenging the traditional norms and forms of garment making in this masterful 64-piece collection, Martens conceptualizes wearable chaos in a coed collection that mixes genres including a typical sportswear/street style mesh with evening elegance, denim endeavors, and flâneurs in leather jackets.
Martens’ nonconforming silhouettes are accentuated by twists and twirls, constructed with metallic wires which are directly integrated into the fabric. The innovative design concept, which was first explored in the FW17 collection, evolves classic clothing pieces like pants, jackets, skirts, and dresses into more playful renditions that offer the same versatility.
The designer’s disruptive signature aesthetic continues to prevail throughout the collection, transfiguring iconic pieces into modular must-haves. Taking inspiration from what feels like the baroque era, Martens chooses to purposely distort and alter the shapes through detachable and doubled collars cuffs and collars, ballooning visuals, double-breasted jacket fronts, and even the abrupt fastening of the horizontal waistlines.
Due to the consistently ordered chaos, the pieces have always been deemed wearable. Wearers demanded the outrageous silhouettes, with double-layered pieces, and mind-bending designs in Martens’ collection. Shirts are doubled with extra features such as buttons, or layers of fabric so that styling can allow for maximal expression of individuality. Pieces can be worn in its formal sense or as fully deconstructed for one to showcase their personal styling creations.
The collection also features an ongoing collaboration with Canada Goose. Martens has evidently explored a new dimension of technical and versatile outerwear, adding theatrical flares to the draping cape-like silhouettes reminiscent of opera curtains from the Belle Epoque. Functionality and playfulness are an emphasis throughout the collaboration.
Check out the virtual show below and the runway collection above.