Berluti Valiantly Upends Classic Tailoring for SS20

Kris Van Assche’s second runway presentation blends craft with contemporary twists.

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Fashion
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If the Fall/Winter 2019 runway show served as an appetizer for Kris Van Assche‘s Berluti, his Spring/Summer 2020 presentation is the main course. Head-turning tropes from FW19 resurfaced alongside a striking juxtaposition of craft and creativity, elevating forward-thinking suits and progressive tailoring with strong attention to detail and an appreciation for the LVMH-owned label’s artisanal heritage.

Accompanied by plentiful premium eyewear and no-nonsense chisel toe boots, Berluti’s SS20 collection was a genderless affair, delivering trim overcoats, billowing shorts and elegant handbags for all models. Lush, painted accents elevated the shirting, tucked away beneath sleeveless blazers and matching trousers in orange, blue, black and purple makeups, while illustrative script branding appeared on garments and accessories alike, creating a unifying motif of trend-free elegance.

Elsewhere, sporty hoodies, track jackets and belts delivered current-day logos, including a large “B” and chenille “BERLUTI” text. More subtle detailing came by way of the graphic, split hems on slacks and the matching coat lining. FW19’s motocross pants returned, as did the graphic leather bags, an update to Berluti’s original focus — unparalleled leather craftsmanship. The sleek silhouettes were occasionally diverted by oversized layers and slacks, most notably undermined by vests, skirts and pants that featured an all-over ostrich feather appliqué.

Check out the runway looks from Van Assche’s latest Berluti presentation above.

Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Vetements hit McDonald’s for Spring/Summer 2020.

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