Berluti Valiantly Upends Classic Tailoring for SS20

Kris Van Assche’s second runway presentation blends craft with contemporary twists.

Fashion
4.5K 3 Comments

If the Fall/Winter 2019 runway show served as an appetizer for Kris Van Assche‘s Berluti, his Spring/Summer 2020 presentation is the main course. Head-turning tropes from FW19 resurfaced alongside a striking juxtaposition of craft and creativity, elevating forward-thinking suits and progressive tailoring with strong attention to detail and an appreciation for the LVMH-owned label’s artisanal heritage.

Accompanied by plentiful premium eyewear and no-nonsense chisel toe boots, Berluti’s SS20 collection was a genderless affair, delivering trim overcoats, billowing shorts and elegant handbags for all models. Lush, painted accents elevated the shirting, tucked away beneath sleeveless blazers and matching trousers in orange, blue, black and purple makeups, while illustrative script branding appeared on garments and accessories alike, creating a unifying motif of trend-free elegance.

Elsewhere, sporty hoodies, track jackets and belts delivered current-day logos, including a large “B” and chenille “BERLUTI” text. More subtle detailing came by way of the graphic, split hems on slacks and the matching coat lining. FW19’s motocross pants returned, as did the graphic leather bags, an update to Berluti’s original focus — unparalleled leather craftsmanship. The sleek silhouettes were occasionally diverted by oversized layers and slacks, most notably undermined by vests, skirts and pants that featured an all-over ostrich feather appliqué.

Check out the runway looks from Van Assche’s latest Berluti presentation above.

Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Vetements hit McDonald’s for Spring/Summer 2020.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Hyperoom Invites You To a Special Friends & Family Day at Paris Fashion Week SS26
Fashion

Hyperoom Invites You To a Special Friends & Family Day at Paris Fashion Week SS26

Featuring brands such as SSSTUFFF, THUG CLUB, Piet and more.

Napapijri Brings “New Perspectives” to Exploration Heritage for SS25
Fashion 

Napapijri Brings “New Perspectives” to Exploration Heritage for SS25

Presented by Napapijri
The forward-thinking collection compiles geometric cuts, modular components, and technical fabrics.

JiyongKim SS25 Brings Refreshed Sun-Bleached Classics For Latest Release
Fashion

JiyongKim SS25 Brings Refreshed Sun-Bleached Classics For Latest Release

Including a Clarks collaboration.


Yohji Yamamoto FW25 Is Deconstructed Perfection
Fashion

Yohji Yamamoto FW25 Is Deconstructed Perfection

The Japanese designer took over the historic Hôtel de Ville in Paris and continued exploring deconstruction ignited during his menswear collection earlier this year.

Kid Cudi and Big Boi Join Shudder's 'Creepshow' Anthology Cast
Entertainment

Kid Cudi and Big Boi Join Shudder's 'Creepshow' Anthology Cast

Stephen King and George A. Romero’s cult classic comes back to life.

Up Close With Louis Vuitton SS20's Plush Footwear and Flower-Drenched Garments
Fashion 

Up Close With Louis Vuitton SS20's Plush Footwear and Flower-Drenched Garments

Detailed shots of Virgil Abloh’s latest clothing, footwear, bags and accessories.

Meet the First Black Curator at the Guggenheim
Art 

Meet the First Black Curator at the Guggenheim

Chaédria LaBouvier uncovers new research on Basquiat’s ‘Defacement’ painting of police brutality.

Backstage and Runway Imagery for Louis Vuitton's Gardener-Friendly SS20 Collection (UPDATE)
Fashion

Backstage and Runway Imagery for Louis Vuitton's Gardener-Friendly SS20 Collection (UPDATE)

Footballer Héctor Bellerín even walked the show.

Blueface and Rich the Kid Throw a Pool Party in "Daddy" Video (Update)
Music

Blueface and Rich the Kid Throw a Pool Party in "Daddy" Video (Update)

The rappers are ready to blow a bag on Louis, Gucci, Fendi and more.


Jonathan Matas Explores the Ordinary in "A Compendium of Moments..." Life Drawing Series
Art

Jonathan Matas Explores the Ordinary in "A Compendium of Moments..." Life Drawing Series

Heading to San Francisco’s Heron Arts gallery.

Hibbett Sports Drops the New Nike N7 Collection
Footwear

Hibbett Sports Drops the New Nike N7 Collection

Presented by Hibbett Sports
Designed by Tinker Hatfield.

Louis Vuitton Named China's Top Luxury Brand in 2019
Fashion

Louis Vuitton Named China's Top Luxury Brand in 2019

According to Gartner L2’s annual report.

Claire Tabouret & Avant Arte to Release Arresting Portrait of 'The Swimmer'
Art

Claire Tabouret & Avant Arte to Release Arresting Portrait of 'The Swimmer'

A limited print edition run of 75.

Explore How Three Creatives Across Europe Rework The Classic Lacoste Polo
Fashion 

Explore How Three Creatives Across Europe Rework The Classic Lacoste Polo

Presented by Lacoste
Paying homage to the iconic design.

More ▾