ISSEY MIYAKE SS27 Is a Breath of Fresh Air
Satoshi Kondo’s “Figure of Ma” turns the negative space between fabric and body into dynamic, breathing expressions.
Summary
Issey Miyake's Spring/Summer 2027 collection, "Figure of Ma," interprets the Japanese idea of meaningful negative space as the air between fabric and body.
Ballooning trench coats, plaster-inspired tops, mesh knit capris, signature pleated pieces and a Camper footwear collaboration all shift shape with the wearer, moving with the body rather than confining it.
Built around “Ma”, the Japanese aesthetic concept of meaningful negative space between elements, Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection interprets “Ma” as the air and space between fabric and the body.
Satoshi Kondo, the Japanese house’s head designer and art director since 2019, debuted the latest collection, “Figure of Ma”, with an all-black set at the Judo Institute during Paris Fashion Week. The show opened in silence, with a single dancer draped in beige pleats, then a troupe introduced a giant cloud-like billowing fabric that unveiled a collection of sculptural yet featherlight tops, voluminous ultra-light outerwear that catches the wind, and vibrant signature pleats.
The collection introduced rounded silhouettes, airy volumes, and surfaces that morphed with the wearer’s every movement. Each piece captured air and shifted shape with the wearer’s movement — ballooning trench coats in purple and black, torso-molded plaster gauze-inspired sleeveless tops, textured mesh knit capris, a puffed-shoulder plisse skirt, and patterned pleated outerwear. Also revealed were buttery leather bags, floppy pleated headwear, and a footwear collaboration with Camper.
Issey Miyake’s “Figure of Ma” collection moves with the body rather than confining it. Sleeves and hems moved as the models did, billowing and deflating like breathing, taking a new form as fabric met the body, turning tailored silhouettes into dynamic expressions of “Ma”.
