Diesel's SS26 Collection Arrives Raw and Reborn
Glenn Martens takes Milan on a gamified experience for his latest collection.
Summary
- Diesel’s SS26 collection was revealed in a city-wide “Easter egg-hunt” with models encased in transparent eggs across Milan
- The collection features deconstructed silhouettes and innovative materials like distressed satin denim and “X-ray” bleached denim
- Designer Glenn Martens stated the show was a game to prove that “everybody gets to be on the front row”
At Milan Fashion Week, creative director Glenn Martens unveiled the new Diesel Spring/Summer 2026 collection with a powerful statement. The show was held at the brand’s new headquarters, with models walking on a monumental pile of discarded clothes—a dramatic and unforgettable setting that served as a backdrop for a collection rooted in themes of upcycling and raw beauty. Creative director Glenn Martens has pushed the boundaries of his aesthetic with a lineup that features innovative material treatments and playful silhouettes. The collection is “next level Diesel,” with a focus on deconstruction, wearability, and a sense of raw, irreverent style.
The collection itself is a masterclass in distressed and deconstructed aesthetics and features a range of bold silhouettes. Martens, known for his innovative approach to denim, presented a lineup of clothing that felt both punk and refined. Tailored jackets are adorned with “exploding” biker straps that can be tied in various ways, and leather skirts are cut with rough, animal hide-like edges. The pieces featured frayed seams, trompe l’oeil prints, and a variety of denim-on-denim looks that have become a signature of his work at the brand. Jackets and skirts were distressed to perfection, with exposed zippers and unconventional cuts that added to the collection’s rebellious spirit. From trompe l’oeil knit jumpsuits to dresses with clouds of shredded chiffon, each piece in the SS26 collection feels like a riddle—a game of discovery that challenges the wearer to look beyond the surface and appreciate the creative chaos within.
A key material in the collection is a satin denim, made from recycled polyester, which is lasered to create a distressed, worn-in effect. This fabric is used for sleeveless biker jackets and apron dresses in vivid colors. The denim itself has been bleached from the inside out, creating an almost “X-ray” effect that reveals the garment’s inner workings. The theme of revealing what is within is also seen in the knits, which have open seams, and in the double-layered pieces, where the inside layer is larger than the outside, creating a surprising and sculptural form.
Beyond the apparel, the presentation was a commentary on the fashion industry itself. Models were featured inside transparent eggs while attendees walked around the show to view the collection on the models encased inside these large, oval-shaped vessels. Each vessel featured a QR-code that invited the public to find the models in their transparent egg casings as a part of a city-wide “Easter egg-hunt” designed by Martens. The 55 looks for the SS26 season were located in 18 different locations around Milan, including in churches, bars and clubs. The central stage was at the city’s Piazza Beccaria which featured live music and entertainment. Martens shared in a statement, “This is Diesel for the people, a collection discovered by the public at the same time as everyone else. Fashion is a game and we are playing it: everybody gets to be on the front row. Follow the rules, then break them, For Successful Living!” Take a look at the collection above.
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