Dries Van Noten’s Final Runway Was a Journey Through Space and Time

The Belgian designer showcased his 150th collection for the House in the Parisian outskirts, recalling his extensive career across 69 refined looks.

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Paris has just bid farewell to one of the greats. Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has shown his final collection at the helm of his eponymous label, staging a magnificent runway worthy of the occasion.

Dries Van Noten’s final collection was a journey through time, recalling the past 38 years packed with influential design. Hundreds of guests were led to the Parisian outskirts to a graffiti-covered warehouse fitted with a central cube sculpture. The figure was mirrored with Van Noten’s previous collections, showcasing the most impactful moments of his career.

An hour-long reception excited guests as emotions ran high in anticipation for his final bow. Curtains unexpectedly lifted to reveal an expansive foil runway as guests took their seats to observe a historic moment in fashion history. Spring/Summer 2025 consisted of 69 menswear looks, with 12 worn by women — an homage to the versatility and love shared for the brand by all. A novel speech by David Bowie took over the room, accompanying the first look worn by Alain Gossuin — who appeared in Dries Van Noten’s inaugural showcase in 1991. A double-breasted tailored coat drenched his body elegantly, completed with khaki trousers and open-toed sandals.

“And all at once, the outward appearance of meaning is transcended, and you find yourself struggling to comprehend a deep and formidable mystery.” The words echoed across the venue in tribute to Van Noten’s boundary-breaking legacy. A pinstriped blazer with popped collars made up the second look with sheer bottoms, while glitter-fused mock necks, strong-shouldered outerwear, and glossy covered coats made their way down the runway next. The model casting included dozens of beloved names who had walked in previous Van Noten runways and celebrated the brand’s lifespan alongside Debra Shaw, Kristin Owen, Karen Elson, and more.

The pristine collection continued down the metallic runway, marking Van Noten’s 150th collection for the House. Transcending space and time, garments reflected contemporary elegance with an eye for subtly seen in embroidered sleeveless tops, oversized shorts, and military-style jackets. Japanese “floating ink” techniques — suminagashi — ran across cropped bomber jackets, blazers, and hooded anoraks in shimmering gold, seeing the designer draw inspiration from Belgian artist Edith Dekyndt. His manipulation of familiar entities guided the show under an innovative light, seeing ordinary tank tops shine in purple velour or knee-length trench coats land in luxurious organza. Neutral hues transitioned into bold pastels, overwhelming mohair car coats, and textured cardigans in pink, green, and orange. The designer’s signature prints closed the collection in style, seeing compact flowers and plants brighten crinkled polyamide-trimmed looks inspired by shattering glass.

As the runway drew to a close, models stormed the runway with encouraging applause and ignited an extensive standing ovation. Van Noten appeared to take his final bow, waving at the crowd, who had tears in their eyes — saying goodbye to a legend who will always be remembered.

Take a closer look at Dries Van Noten’s SS25 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more Paris Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.

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