What's Happening at Valentino?
Following Pierpaolo Piccioli’s exit, the Italian fashion house has canceled its June runways as rumors swirl about who could be the brand’s next creative director.
Pierpaolo Piccioli bid farewell to Valentino on Friday, after 25 years at the Italian fashion house’s helm. In a mutual agreement with the brand, the designer has already departed from the label, meaning his Fall 2024 collection, shown during Paris Fashion Week in February, marked his final output for Valentino.
In a heartfelt message, he wrote, “Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows. I’ve been in this company for 25 years, and for 25 years I’ve existed and I’ve lived with the people who have woven the weaves of this beautiful story that is mine and ours.” He continued to thank Mr. Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti for trusting in his vision, adding, “This heritage of love, dreams, beauty and humanity, I carry it with me, today and forever.”
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Now, in Piccioli’s absence, Valentino has chosen to cancel its upcoming runway shows. “Following the latest organizational announcement regarding the Maison’s Creative Direction, Valentino confirms that it will not present its upcoming Men’s and Haute Couture fashion shows in June 2024,” the company wrote in a statement on Monday.
“Creativity will continue to lead the company as a key pillar, shaping new future collections…elevating the brand’s DNA, its iconic codes, and unrivaled Italian heritage,” the brand concluded.
As the brand recalibrates, rumors are already swirling about who will take over the Rome-based fashion house’s helm. According to several market sources via WWD, former Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele “is thick in talks and negotiating a contract with Valentino.”
Per the outlet’s sources, Michele was previously in talks with Valentino owner Mayhoola’s chief executive officer Rachid Mohamed Rachid, who wanted the designer to take over creative direction at Walter Albini. However, Michele passed on the offer, which included an investment in the label.
“This time around, the Valentino project would be much more interesting for Michele, as it would also allow him to design couture collections, and it is no secret that he needs a well-oiled machine behind him to support his research and creativity, with skilled designers and artisans, the best fabrics and big pockets to turn his ideas into reality,” another source explained. “Also, Valentino is not as huge in terms of sales as Gucci, so the pressure is different, and, on the contrary, there is strong growth potential.”
Michele already has a working relationship with Valentino CEO Jacopo Venturini, who previously served as the executive vice president of merchandising and global markets at Gucci. “They worked well together, of course they may have had some disagreements — creativity versus business demands — but it was a good relationship,” according to the outlet’s insiders.
In its announcement of Piccioli’s exit, Valentino said it would name the designer’s successor “soon.” Considering Michele’s non-compete expires this month, the timing couldn’t be more perfect. However, sources also noted that Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri “could also be eyeing a return to Rome,” with either Valentino or Fendi. And online, fans of the brand continue to push for the likes of Sarah Burton or Haider Ackermann to take Valentino’s wheel. We’ll have to wait for the final verdict.
At the same time, insiders offered theories about Piccioli’s next move. Many believe that he could become Demna’s successor at Balenciaga, while others speculate he may be up next at Givenchy, which is presently operating without a creative director. Either way, he’ll likely be taking some time away from the design room before making his next move.
