For Fall/Winter 2023, Helmut Lang developed its collection around an investigation of uniforming of all types of work. The exploration of workwear in all its possibilities is fueled by an understanding of “UTILITY. CIVILITY. DEVIANCE.”
Drawing from its archive, Helmut Lang brought back its iconic “COWBOY” print from Spring 2004 as part of its look at aligning entities and their equal outlooks of aesthetics and attitude. A certain flamboyance runs through the collection marked by striking constructions that utilizes greasy shearling, hairy wool, micro sequins, tulle viscose, silk organza, distressed hide, and more. While accenting detailing comes in the form of yolks, metal tips, rivets, articulated sleeves, and fringes.
Understanding the complex and at times problematic existence of the cowboy, Helmut Lang invited writer, editor, and curator Antwuan Sargent to explore the complexity of the American icon. Who enlisted a series of artists to consider the cowboy from different points of view and new cultural awareness, resulting in an exhibition at Hannah Traore Gallery. The artworks by the collaborators have also been rendered as artist-edition T-shirts in the seasonal range.
Take a look at Helmut Lang’s FW23 collection above.
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