Ancuta Sarca FW23 Enters an AI Universe

Including a collaboration with Lee® that repurposed deadstock denim into retro-inspired apparel footwear, and bags.

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Ancuta Sarca has returned to the London Fashion Week calendar to present a fresh take on her outlandish footwear creations. For Spring/Summer 2023, the designer unveiled her own stage and collaborated with Vans for an exclusive lineup of reconstructed loafers, also presenting inclusive shapewear alongside SKIMS.

Fall/Winter 2023 saw the Romanian designer and Fashion East alumni debut an array of futuristic styles that mirror the current AI age while introducing upcycled looks that keep a sustainable outlook. For FW23, Sarca took inspiration from Alex Garland’s debut film Ex Machina Spanish sci-fi thriller The Skin I Live In, which are mutually set in dystopian worlds with a sinister aura. Her hometown of Negrești-Oaș is reflected throughout, showcasing woodland-inspired motifs that see futurism and natural elements collide.

In the apparel department, skintight dresses boast curved graphics and fur-encrusted hems that work next to hooded garments ideal for après ski affairs. Reversed denim ensembles feature jean pockets and detailing at the bottom, while the upper half sees halter neck straps and torn bralettes matched with quilted bomber jackets.

Ancuta Sarca’s seasonal footwear offers a retro-stimulated take on ski-ready boots crafted from recycled leather, fur, and resistant nylon with detachable pockets for negative temperatures. The designer’s trademark sneaker-inspired heels don overlapping straps, while others arrive as knee-high interpretations of classic Nike silhouettes. Made to match womenswear and shoes, Sarca united with Lee® for an array of denim mules and bags that utilize deadstock fabrics to avoid material waste.

Take a closer look at Ancuta Sarca’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.

Elsewhere at London Fashion Week, LABRUM FW23 “From Greener Pastures” reunites disjoined immigrant families.

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