Paul Smith FW23 Is a Reflection of the Designer's Past

Drawing from his extensive archive as well as 200-year-old rugs he found in Milan.

Fashion 
3,157 Hypes 1 Comments

Paul Smith is one of the U.K.’s greatest talents, and today he proved just that with his Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection. Debuting at Paris Fashion Week, the Nottingham native known for color delivered a men’s medley of mishmashed and manipulated materials, inserting his signature use of stripes, rainbow colors, and prints into almost all of the collection.

FW23 was a reflection on the past. Pieces he designed in the ’90s acted as inspiration for the smallest of details, such as adding four buttons to the cuffs of jackets, bottoms of trousers, and along the interior seam of jackets. Looking back even further, the designer headed out to Milan where he found a collection of rugs, some of which were 200 years old. Couple this with fabrics taken from local English mills, and Paul Smith FW23 is a collection destined for his extensive archive and will surely be remembered.

Speaking on this in more detail to Hypebeast backstage, the designer said: “I visited a really amazing collection of old rugs. We got a lot of inspiration from the patterns, they were all slightly weird colors because they were hand-dyed.” With this in mind, he translated this vision onto his signature knitwear, adding twisted yarns that look like tweed together with colorful yarns to create a textured array of abstract jumpers, vests, and capes.

His tailoring was heavily inspired by the archives, too. “We went to the archives to use fabrics that I had done in the past, 25 years ago, and I’ve remade them for modern times. I was just revisiting things that I’ve done in my very, very, very long life, and still standing somehow, and jumping!”

But it wasn’t all as clean-cut as it seems. For example, outerwear that looks like it’s made from suiting fabrics, complete with check prints taken from the archive, is actually made from waterproof, windproof, weather-resistant recycled materials. The Houndstooth check that was used consistently across pieces was much more, as it inverted itself across blue-centric or gray-centric designs, intertwining with floral motifs taken from those aforementioned rugs.

This goes on to inform scarves and shoes that the designer said “reminded [him] of his time in London.” We think this was perfectly captured in one final look, a trench coat of Houndstooth design that belted and cinched, beautifully draping from the broad shoulders to the narrowness near the floor.

Altogether, the designer put it best himself. “If you take all of these apart, it’s a very wearable piece of clothing. I’ve always done clothes that people — people – wear.”

Take a look at Paul Smith’s FW23 collection above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week FW23 content.

ICYMI, take a look at Givenchy FW23 backstage.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Nanushka FW23 Was a "Shape Shifting" Affair
Fashion

Nanushka FW23 Was a "Shape Shifting" Affair

Delivering transformational attire that doubled as something new for the brand.

Facetasm Explores the Beauty of Color for FW23
Fashion

Facetasm Explores the Beauty of Color for FW23

Including floral patterns, face veils, and military-inspired designs.

Robyn Lynch FW23 Is the Designer's Turning Point
Fashion 

Robyn Lynch FW23 Is the Designer's Turning Point

Emerging designer no more, Lynch is here to stay.


Bode FW23 Is an Ethereal Ode to Family
Fashion

Bode FW23 Is an Ethereal Ode to Family

Emily Adams Bode Aujla debuts her first womenswear collection in the co-ed show.

MAXIME’s New Collection Explores "The Beauty of Imperfection"
Fashion 

MAXIME’s New Collection Explores "The Beauty of Imperfection"

You can see the collection IRL now during Paris Fashion Week.

Kyoto’s Art Scene Honors Taiga Takahashi’s Definitive Work in Retrospective Exhibitions
Art 

Kyoto’s Art Scene Honors Taiga Takahashi’s Definitive Work in Retrospective Exhibitions

Presented by Taiga Takahashi
Retracing his historical exploration in fashion, architecture and design.

Everything Dropping at HBX Archives This Week
Fashion

Everything Dropping at HBX Archives This Week

Featuring the Advisory Board Cyrstals graphic-print hoodie.

RANRA FW23 Is Centered Around Pillars of Emulation, Attentiveness, Nature and Sequence
Fashion 

RANRA FW23 Is Centered Around Pillars of Emulation, Attentiveness, Nature and Sequence

Promoting daily interaction with Mother Earth through a sustainable lens.

Nike’s Air Adjust Force Gets a "Black-Multi" Makeover
Footwear

Nike’s Air Adjust Force Gets a "Black-Multi" Makeover

Constructed with a Nike Grind sole unit.


Junya Watanabe MAN FW23 Presents the Modern Gentleman
Fashion

Junya Watanabe MAN FW23 Presents the Modern Gentleman

Revealing an expansive set of collaborations with Palace, Carhartt, New Balance and more.

The New Balance 550 Gets Treated With "LA Rams" Team Hues
Footwear

The New Balance 550 Gets Treated With "LA Rams" Team Hues

Promoting the Los Angeles-based NFL team.

Tottenham’s Headie One Finally Drops "Martin’s Sofa"
Music 

Tottenham’s Headie One Finally Drops "Martin’s Sofa"

The UK drill star comes with one of his most introspective singles to date.

Dickies’ New Collection Wants You to Enjoy the Brilliance of Spring
Fashion

Dickies’ New Collection Wants You to Enjoy the Brilliance of Spring

Taking inspiration from outdoor games and open-air festivals.

Giancarlo Valle Collaborates with Nordic Knots For a Rug Collection
Design

Giancarlo Valle Collaborates with Nordic Knots For a Rug Collection

A unique combination of Guatemalan and Scandanavian aesthetics.

More ▾
 
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Looks like you’re using an ad-blocker

We charge advertisers instead of our readers. Support us by whitelisting our site.

Whitelist Us

How to Whitelist Us

screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlock icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Under “Pause on this site” click “Always”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlock Plus icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Block ads on – This website” switch off the toggle to turn it from blue to gray.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlocker Ultimate icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Switch off the toggle to turn it from “Enabled on this site” to “Disabled on this site”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the Ghostery icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Click on the “Ad-Blocking” button at the bottom. It will turn gray and the text above will go from “ON” to “OFF”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the UBlock Origin icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Click on the large blue power icon at the top.
  3. When it turns gray, click the refresh icon that has appeared next to it or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the icon of the ad-blocker extension installed on your browser.You’ll usually find this icon in the upper right-hand corner of your screen. You may have more than one ad-blocker installed.
  2. Follow the instructions for disabling the ad blocker on the site you’re viewing.You may have to select a menu option or click a button.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.