OAMC SS23 Is Gorpcore In Its Most Sophisticated Form

Luke Meier is infatuated with the finer details, and his label OAMC is the perfect embodiment of his practice. For Spring/Summer 2023, OAMC heads to the Alps — metaphorically of course — with a collection that unpacks what makes Alpine-wear functional in its natural habitat, but also fit for the gorpcore, sartorial, minimalist lovers on the streets.

Leaning on a phrase from the German astronomer Johannes Kepler, “Geometry is the archetype of the beauty of the world,” the brand looks at the harmony between nature and its intrinsic geometric landscapes. With this in mind, functionality is the forefront of OAMC’s seasonal output, with informed elements like diagonal zippers, three-dimensional pockets, and material manipulation coming together to both represent natural formations and be suited for us to explore them.

The result ranges from tops that undulate as zippers dart across the chest, cutting through the bleak pastel tones like a cliff drop. Shoulders are harsh and squared-off, tapping into fashion trends but also the jagged terrain of Alpine escapes, while the netting on miniature bags, or the rope handles, are further references to what’s needed when exploring tough conditions.

Like the environment it draws from, much of the collection is served up in a variety of soft and organic hues — clay, gray, sage, cream, white, burnt orange, black and more. The muted tones allow the clothes’ construction to sing, with minimal coats sporting sharp darted collars and concealed buttons, or allowing the 3D pockets on a jacket to take center stage.

Elsewhere, OAMC’s Re:Work division steps into its most conceptual form to date, as vintage garments and materials are repurposed, dyed, and refinished to create homages to what they once were. For example, parachutes get the Re:Work treatment, adding lining and padding, before being given circular structures to help them form clothing; and now we have OAMC bombers and baby blue overalls.

Shoes enhance the overarching Alpine theme, as OAMC’s proprietary sole unit is met with Ortholite insoles and contrasting side-clip detailing to create an ode to running footwear of the past, complete with multicolored rope laces and soft colorways including lilac suede or brown-gray mesh.

Altogether, OAMC SS23 presents itself as a complete outfit that works interchangeably from one product to the next. Whether it’s crisp shirts and light checkered shorts or a fisherman’s knit jumper, paint splatter-effect gilets or Japanese denim, Luke Meier has understood the needs of his clientele and the dominant trends of today.

Hypebeast spoke to Luke Meier to find out more about the collection and its inspirations:

Hypebeast: How has nature’s geometry been translated into the SS23 clothing?

Luke Meier: Nature is the biggest inspiration, always. This season we also looked at vintage outdoor and mountaineering garments, and some of their creative detailing. We incorporated both natural proportions and technical details to push a new aesthetic proposal.

Why is it important to you and the OAMC label to create clothes that are formal yet utilitarian?

We make clothes that are high quality but have a strong aesthetic point of view. We’re not too concerned with formality, rather we want to convey what we think is modern, interesting, and has a strong attitude.

Do you think the future of how we dress will be more considerate of blending those two worlds coming together?

The most inspiring idea about the future of how we dress is the idea that we can get closer to natural fiber and properly work with it to achieve the characteristics that synthetic fibers give us now. Nature is the best engineer and we just have to learn more.

What is it that you want the consumer to feel when wearing the SS23 collection?

I want people who enjoy our clothes to feel the quality but also feel like they are wearing something that empowers them and makes them feel good about themselves. Clothes should serve the person.

Take a look at the collection in the lookbook above, and find out more information on OAMC’s website.

For more minimal must-haves, check out the latest collection from HAL STUDIOS®.