Ib Kamara’s Off-White™ Debut Challenged Societal Notions for SS23

Having curated high fashion imagery and forward-thinking aesthetics within the editorial space for many years, Ib Kamara has gracefully stepped over into the world of fashion design – now leading the charge at the late Virgil Abloh’s Off-White™ establishment.

As the label’s new Art & Image Director, Kamara – who frequently collaborated with Abloh – gives oversight to the production of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, and for Spring/Summer 2023, he challenged societal notions with his first runway showcase for the brand. While still operating in his position as Editor-in-Chief of Dazed magazine, Kamara’s second job at OW proved to be a fun outlet for creativity as his SS23 runway broke away from Abloh’s influential design motifs and incorporated new flights of fancy, maximalism, razor-sharp detailing and a range of accessories.

The new collection was shown atop a cobalt blue runway flooring and incorporated the stark color throughout the presentation of supple leather suiting, oversized denim coats, voluminous shorts, ruffled dresses, bodysuits and fitted ribbed knits.

Stomach area cut-outs (hinting at the concept of rebirth), along with images of the human form were strewn throughout the collection as x-ray skeletal graphics and mid-section bodice impressions were intricately printed and stitched onto jackets, pants, tops and bottoms. Floral blossoms were also highlighted in the form of hydrangea petals crafted from knit fabrics peppered atop long knit dresses and sleek headwear.

Additionally, Kamara seemed to draw inspiration from a futuristic theme, with model ensembles resembling a refined Matrix and Blade Runner-esque apocalyptic stylization in the form of long sweeping coats, aerodynamic hooded tops, knitted bodysuits, stack-heeled boots and front-facing leather backpacks attached to lean leather suits.

Subtly pointing a finger at society, Kamara – amidst the final flood of models painted and outfitted in blue body suits and ear adornments – made his bow on the runway wearing a socially conscious T-shirt bearing the phrase: “Abuse of Power Comes as No Surprise.”

Elsewhere in fashion month, here’s what Daniel Lee’s appointment means for Burberry.