Jil Sander's Resort 2023 Collection Explores Changing Perspectives
Marked by a mix of innovative and traditional techniques.
Returning with its Resort 2023 collection, Jil Sander develops an expansive aesthetic pointing towards an outlook of change for the label. “The clarity, the elongated lines, the ocean sky gradients and palm tree prints, the overarching sense of ease and elegance suggest freedom, new territories, endless horizons. A vision and a continuous change of perspective,” Jil Sander writes in a description for the new collection.
For the season, Lucie and Luke Meier, the Creative Director duo behind Jil Sander, put together a color palette that effortlessly shifts from white to black through butter, cream, sand, pastel yellow, pink, pea green, gray, indigo, silver and rose. While iridescent and oneiric hues of sequins and prints provide select explorations of flair.
The designers built on the sartorial language of Jil Sander, challenging stereotypes to mash masculine and feminine aesthetics in the deconstruction of the men’s suit. Replacing the classic jacket with round neck tank tops, shirt-jackets, trenches, and overcoats, paired with kilts, long skirts, high-waisted pleated trousers, and shorts.
Silhouettes and shapes are marked by purpose with sophisticated constructions utilizing dry wool, linen, gessoed cotton, cashmere and cotton knitwear. With shirts, T-shirts and tank tops marked by dye and colorful prints that mix innovative and traditional techniques. Rounding up the collection are a series of carrying options in a variety of shapes and footwear in the form of sneakers, sandals, creepers and boots.
Speaking to HYPEBEAST about the collection, creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier pointed to the West Coast influence and the contradictions within that. “We were thinking about the idea – maybe not the reality – of what the West Coast felt like post-wear,” Luke explains. “The idea of what California represents in terms of opportunity, building things, a fresh start, a new possibility. A lot of people feel like they want that right now, after being bruised and battered over the last few years. It feels like a time for a positive outlook.”
Luke’s own upbringing on the west coast of Canada also shaped this influence, particularly the wide open spaces of the area. “After living in Europe you reflect on it, out there there’s an openness to whatever you want to do,” he continues. “If you’re brave enough, you’re able to do something without having the cultural weight of accomplishment on your shoulders. It’s so young, it’s so new, it’s so fresh. You can really give everything a try without that being odd or intimidating. We like this romantic idea of that.”
The Californian influence is showcased through a range of touch points, covering everything from old Hollywood glamor to traditional workwear. “If you go somewhere like the West Coast, where it’s open and free, you have to get down to business and actually build something,” Luke adds. There’s endless suburbia, there’s an endless feeling of construction. To break that, we really felt inspired by the glamor of the West Coast, reinventing yourself and living this decadent, old Hollywood extravagance.”
Mixing these two reference points, classic workwear pieces are constructed using premium fabrics. Lucie and Luke Meier point towards a jumpsuit made from a linen silk viscose fabric, giving it an entirely new aesthetic. “We always have a big respect for uniform, and treating it in a very elevated way,” Lucie explains. “It just shows a respect for yourself, if you really put yourself together.”
The idea of uniform can also be seen through the focus on everyday items, which have also been given a Jil Sander twist. “We don’t have so many classic shirts, it was more vests and T-shirts, really elevating these simple pieces,” Lucie continues. “They’re part of everybody’s wardrobe, so we took them into cashmeres and elevated fabrics.” Elsewhere, the collection also features skirts and kilts, continuing the Californian theme. “We like the idea of free spirits,” Lucie said, “so it felt right to include them.”
Take a look at Jil Sander’s Resort 2023 collection above.
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