Ann Demeulemeester SS23 Melds Sharp Tailoring and Fluid Design Codes
Operating on a largely black and white palette.
After curating an anthology showcase in June as Pitti Uomo 102’s Guest of Honor, Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester has returned to Paris Fashion Week’s runway to showcase her latest Spring/Summer 2023 cuts.
From beginning to conclusion, the House’s latest offering disregards color codes, opting almost exclusively for all-black or all-white silhouettes. On the dark side, loose pants flutter with a fluid cadence upon each step, keeping the attention in frequent pairing with long-sleeve, form-fitting top offerings. Leather blazers dip to the mid-thigh, rigid dresses and matching sets are secured to the body under criss-crossed shoulder bags, and tailoring is kept sharp overall.
The legion of bright assemblages introduces a mesh-like, almost-transparent fabrication that injects an ethereal sentiment into a bevy of cuts. Wrapping around collared shirts, composing a layered jumpsuit and tying together an asymmetrical top, the liberarted textile lets sensuality bubble to the surface. Elsewhere, a full-length dress hugs the human form, a light trech coat plunges toward the ground and layering plays an essential role in styling.
In closing, Demeulemeester strays from her black-and-white allegiance, sending a number of ever-so-slightly-green suit jackets, wide-set pants, dresses and long-sleeves down the runway.
Indulge in Ann Demeulemeester’s full SS23 collection in the gallery above.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, peruse Vivienne Westwood’s SS23 designs.
