Rei Kawakubo Served Muted Elegance at COMME des GARÇONS SS23

The fashion great explored structure, shapes, and naturally, the impactful use of black and white.

Fashion
5,660 Hypes 2 Comments

Rei Kawakubo is the quietest oracle in fashion, but her house — COMME des GARÇONS — speaks in volume. It has paved the (run)way for more than 50 years, existing as a monolithic fashion house that’s more than just an incubator of great design, but a hub for creativity. CdG’s work over the years has rightly become grail-worthy and often a source of inspiration for designers and fashionistas alike, so when Kawakubo comes to Paris Fashion Week, you best be paying close attention.

Take note of the attendees: Adrian Joffe, Rick Owens, Michéle Lamy, Tremaine Emory, Edward Enninful, Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard — all friends of CdG and of course Dover Street Market.

No fuss was made here for the set, with foldable metal chairs and a heavy lighting rig being the only adornment to this white box. But, this is how Kawakubo wants it, reflecting her designs that are often black or white, minimal but impactful by all means.

As for the show itself, the designer commenced with black and white (naturally) ensembles, two sporting lace and another like a couturified Hunchback of Notre Damn, each with a Salomon collaboration on foot.

Dresses became more extravagant: leather was turned into lace and exploded at the hip. Flowers made a chain across a white base, complementing an industrial floral headpiece.

The theme, and word, Renaissance has been thrown around a lot as of late — thanks Beyoncé — but it has mainly been a big influence in fashion, à la Vivienne Westwood earlier today.

Here, CdG ups it a notch with French classical music and complementing references throughout the collection. Hair, often curly, was worn like ruffles on a collared neckline. Tops were bulbous, round and puffy. Leggings were made from roses, while folds of fabric often created regal undertones.

In a shift to monochrome tones, Kawakubo sent another life form down the runway, this time a colourful floral number. It too worked as a dress and a sculpture, a thread apparent across the entire collection. Following, an embroidery of roses came together on an angular dress, seeing its hips bulging with silk ruffles that continued the traditional theme — and this was then elevated, if even possible, as another dress of the same fabric looked as if it had been constructed by wind.

To close, the show simply ended. Lights off.

Take a look at COMME des GARÇONS SS23 above and find more PFW SS23 content on Hypebeast.

Elsewhere, peruse Issey Miyake’s SS23 offerings.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Primal Substances Work Alongside Technical Forms at HELIOT EMIL SS23
Fashion

Primal Substances Work Alongside Technical Forms at HELIOT EMIL SS23

The Juul boys honed in on their craft while also presenting an Alpinestars collaboration.

Yohji Yamamoto’s Tattered Elegance Set a Halfway Mark for Paris’ SS23 Collections
Fashion

Yohji Yamamoto’s Tattered Elegance Set a Halfway Mark for Paris’ SS23 Collections

The legendary designer presented a variegated assortment of all-black runway looks for next season.

"Unboxing Valentino" SS23 Served Minimal Maximalism and Maximal Minimalism
Fashion

"Unboxing Valentino" SS23 Served Minimal Maximalism and Maximal Minimalism

Proving Pierpaolo Piccioli can do both.


Ludovic de Saint Sernin SS23 Served Unadulterated Sensuality
Fashion

Ludovic de Saint Sernin SS23 Served Unadulterated Sensuality

The co-ed show saw models in barely there sophistication.

Meta Introduces New AI System That Lets Users Turn Text Prompts Into Video Clips
Tech

Meta Introduces New AI System That Lets Users Turn Text Prompts Into Video Clips

Make-A-Video builds on the company’s generative technology research.

Elon Musk Reveals Latest Optimus Robot Prototype
Tech

Elon Musk Reveals Latest Optimus Robot Prototype

Joining the Tesla boss on stage.

Kellogg's and The Elf on the Shelf Launch Cooling Effect Snow Creme Cereal
Food & Beverage

Kellogg's and The Elf on the Shelf Launch Cooling Effect Snow Creme Cereal

The temperature is about to drop on the cereal aisle.

Lauren Amos and the CDG x Nike Cortez Platform for HYPEBEAST’s Sole Mates
Footwear 

Lauren Amos and the CDG x Nike Cortez Platform for HYPEBEAST’s Sole Mates

The founder of Wish and Antidote riffs on her love for the chunky Swoosh collab and Atlanta’s fashion scene.

Ferrari Builds Unique SP51 V12 Spider for Leading Collector
Automotive

Ferrari Builds Unique SP51 V12 Spider for Leading Collector

Turning the 812 GTS into a roadster.


It Was All a Dream at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood SS23
Fashion

It Was All a Dream at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood SS23

Serving nods to homoerotica, the Renaissance period, the ’60s, and plenty of Westwood-isms.

Moncler Launches Limited-Edition Maya 70 Down Jacket on HBX
Fashion

Moncler Launches Limited-Edition Maya 70 Down Jacket on HBX

Upgraded with elements that celebrate the fashion house’s 70th anniversary.

Coperni's Spray-Painted Fabrican Dress Will Go Down In the Fashion History Books
Fashion

Coperni's Spray-Painted Fabrican Dress Will Go Down In the Fashion History Books

Watch as Bella Hadid gets dressed in paint — and then walks the runway in this non-woven technical sprayed fabric dress.

Moncler Takes a Trip Down Memory Lane With 'Extraordinary Forever' Campaign
Fashion

Moncler Takes a Trip Down Memory Lane With 'Extraordinary Forever' Campaign

An expedition into the brand’s seven decades of heritage.

Bamford London x seconde/seconde/ 'Bad Form' GMT Sticks Two Fingers Up at Critics
Watches

Bamford London x seconde/seconde/ 'Bad Form' GMT Sticks Two Fingers Up at Critics

Limited to just 50 pieces.

More ▾
 
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Looks like you’re using an ad-blocker

We charge advertisers instead of our readers. Support us by whitelisting our site.

Whitelist Us

How to Whitelist Us

screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlock icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Under “Pause on this site” click “Always”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlock Plus icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Block ads on – This website” switch off the toggle to turn it from blue to gray.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlocker Ultimate icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Switch off the toggle to turn it from “Enabled on this site” to “Disabled on this site”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the Ghostery icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Click on the “Ad-Blocking” button at the bottom. It will turn gray and the text above will go from “ON” to “OFF”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the UBlock Origin icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Click on the large blue power icon at the top.
  3. When it turns gray, click the refresh icon that has appeared next to it or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the icon of the ad-blocker extension installed on your browser.You’ll usually find this icon in the upper right-hand corner of your screen. You may have more than one ad-blocker installed.
  2. Follow the instructions for disabling the ad blocker on the site you’re viewing.You may have to select a menu option or click a button.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.