Emerging Bologna-based designer Luca Magliano has debuted their eponymous label’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection, which sees Magliano play with proportions, materials, graphics, and phallic symbolism (if you look close enough).
Magliano — who previously won Vogue‘s “Who’s On Next” and is a mainstay at Milan Men’s Fashion Week — is a notable figure in Italy and Europe’s underground LGBTQIA+ scene while also actively standing for and supporting independent organizations that aim to fight for the queer communities’ rights. In a similar vein to Magliano’s FW20 collection, the FW21 lookbook is androgynous at times and contemporary throughout thanks to its subversive take on formalwear, but also works with a wide range of lush materials that elevate plenty of looks.
For example, the blazer-tucked-into-suit pant situation and harnessed with a tight belt around the waist is beautifully tailored and considered, but of course goes against the usual constraints of a suit, while the henley that’s worn underneath an oversized blazer is giving off a very “underground NYC in the ’80s” vibe.
Leather jackets paired with leather berets look somewhat Tom of Finland-inspired, while the cream cable knit jumper with a phallic symbol on the front bares all without the need for interpretation. However, for those who want billowing graphic-covered silky shirts, super oversized denim workwear-inspired jackets (that once again allude to the styles of NYC), or playful cherub-graphic cardigans, then Magliano also has this in abundance.
The FW21 collection from Magliano can be seen in the lookbook above, and is expected to release in the coming months at a wide range of stockists, all of which can be found on the Magliano website. A selection of the collection can be bought from Slam Jam now.
In other news, A Kind of Guise has dropped its second range of the season.