Fendi FW26 Welcomes Maria Grazia Chiuri Back as Creative Director
Trading loud monograms for statement bags, fur-forward craftsmanship and Art Nouveau-inspired silhouettes.
Summary
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Chiuri returns to Fendi, swapping loud monograms for exquisite craftsmanship and Art Nouveau-inspired silhouettes.
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The runway featured plush furs, sensual lace, and ornate leather embroideries, balancing classic elegance with bold accessories like neon coats and animal-print bags.
Maria Grazia Chiuri just made her Fendi FW26 debut at Milan Fashion Week, returning to the house she began as an accessories designer at in 1999.
After spending years at the helm of Dior and taking a short break, Chiuri’s return to the Roman house focuses on reinstating Fendi as an arbiter of craftsmanship. In this collection, the brand stashes away its monogram pattern to tone down loud branding and reinvigorate its best-known products.
Historically renowned for its furs, Fendi’s plush coats had a major presence, appearing in a neon yellow green and mixed-fur patchwork. Elsewhere, Chirui ramps up expression in accessories, including standout handbags in animal print and oversized wrap shades.
However, most of the collection leans into a sensual elegance and a pared-back palette dominated by black and white. Elongated lace slip-dresses and translucent black lace gowns are worn with collar chokers. For men, blazers feature a diagonal toggle-strap, suggesting a harness, and fur collars soften dark, patinated looks.
In place of monograms, Chiuri shared with Vogue that various “embroideries and other applied materials,” emphasizing the individuality of the wearer rather than just the brand. For example, the designer showcased an ornate floral embroidery applied to a fur-lined vest and coat. In other pieces, what appears to be cracked leather is actually small leather flowers against a white background.
While nodding to Art Nouveau’s Viennese Secession movement (a Karl Lagerfeld reference) with geometric cuts and early 20th-century evening silhouettes, Chiuri keeps one foot in present trends with pieces like a black and yellow biker jacket, flashy zebra and tiger print bags, and military-inspired garments.
See the gallery above for a full look at the Fendi FW26 collection and stay tuned to Hypebeast or the latest Milan Fashion Week coverage.
