Calvin Klein Collection FW26 Is Here for Hedonism
A year after her debut, Veronica Leoni hones in on the new era of Calvin Klein with a collection that combines modern minimalist tailoring with indulgent details inspired by the ’70s and ’80s.
Summary
- Veronica Leoni’s FW26 collection explores “hedonistic elegance,” blending reductionist geometry with opulence through sexy suiting, magnified fur, and architectural dresses.
- Drawing inspiration from 1970s archives and 1976 denim, the lineup strikes a balance between stark monochrome tailoring and indulgent textures, including leather, shearling, and translucent jackets.
A year after bringing Calvin Klein Collection back to the runway with her FW25 debut, the creative director is honing in on her interpretation of the brand’s luxury arm. “Hedonistic elegance” is how Calvin Klein described Veronica Leoni’s FW26 Calvin Klein Collection. The simple statement conveys the mix of indulgent and austere elements that shape the line, which was presented at The Shed in NYC.
Before Leoni, the brand was previously helmed by Raf Simons, under whom Leoni worked at Jil Sander. The designer’s additional experience at The Row and Celine (with Phoebe Philo) further informs her interpretation of Calvin Klein Collection, which has historically toed the line between urban expressivity and modern tailoring.
All of those elements show their influence in the FW26 collection. Sexy suiting accentuated different parts of the body, fur collars were magnified to opulent proportions, and a “reductionist” lens highlighted the heightened geometry of the line. The collection also pays homage to the brand’s earlier days in the 70s and early ‘80s, where Leoni finds “danger in the obsessive quest for beauty.”
In particular, 1976 archival denim, the first ever on the Calvin Klein runway, was referenced with longhand logo embroidery on an aviator jacket. It was during this era that Brooke Shields (who was in attendance) famously fronted the brand’s controversial denim campaign.
The show’s opening was led by black and white looks whose details were stripped back and simplified: a stark black suit with tonal pinstripes featured shrunken lapels, and a strapless, structured black dress looked almost seamless in execution. Then, speckled woolen coats, monochromatic all-leather suits, and shearling and leather collars heightened the mood to indulgence.
Cutouts exposed the backsides of women’s jackets, while slim, sleeveless men’s blazers emphasized the arms. Sartorial fabrics were applied to simple yet architectural dresses, contrasting with richly draped numbers composed of supple fabrics. Standing out were translucent jackets in smoky red and taupe, echoing the gritty modernism of Raf Simons’ tenure.
See the gallery above for a full look at Calvin Klein Collection FW26.
