UNDERCOVER FW26 Menswear Goes Full “KHAOTIQUE NOIR”
Jun Takahashi dives into dark luxury with Cindy Sherman’s haunting film stills as inspiration.
Summary
- UNDERCOVER’s FW26 “100% KHAOTIQUE NOIR” revisits Cindy Sherman’s archival images as prints on garments
- Key pieces include silk-padded coats, flight jackets and avant-garde layered tank tops
- Gramicci-collaborated trousers add technical details, disciplined dark palettes and Sherman prints enhance collectible appeal
Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2026 Menswear collection, titled “100% KHAOTIQUE NOIR,” continues the designer’s practice of revisiting past inspirations.
In this latest presentation, Takahashi revisited the creative territory of his Spring 2020 Cindy Sherman collaboration, once again using the artist’s haunting film stills to anchor his designs. While the previous iteration balanced dark tailoring with cinematic imagery, this season elevates the concept through premium Japanese and Italian materials, creating a mood that is both somber and opulent.
Silhouettes focus on elevated outerwear and innovative layering, with key pieces including silk-padded car coats and flight jackets that offer a refined take on functional staples, alongside a suite of sleek, black leather garments that serve as the collection’s standout luxury pieces. Takahashi’s penchant for avant-garde construction is visible in a double-structure conjoined tank top, designed to be worn in multiple configurations. Additionally, a partnership with Gramicci introduces technical outdoor elements to tailored trousers, featuring signature fastenings paired with subversive details like zigzag seaming and raw slashes that expose satin linings.
The color palette remains strictly disciplined, dominated by deep blacks and charcoals with rare interventions of brown botanical jacquards or subtle checks in the knitwear. Artistic references and collaborations added further depth to the collection. Sherman’s imagery resurfaced in patches and prints across garments and even on Vans sneakers, offering collectible appeal for brand loyalists.
