MM6 Refines Simple Subversion For FW25
Following its captivating Pitti Uomo show, the Margiela studio team reestablished its foundational techniques.
“Clothing Hanger” shoulder pads, sheer dress overlays, and oversized blazers—that is the MM6 secret code. Earlier this year, MM6 triumphantly returned to Pitti Uomo as the guest designer, staging their first-ever stand-alone menswear runway show. The collection was a tribute to Martin Margiela’s 2006 white-out show and redefined the deconstructed capsule uniform for MM6’s ready-to-wear man. This season, the FW25 womenswear collection expanded these ideas by exploring the possibilities of subversive simplicity.
Models slowly strutted across the catwalk, making direct eye contact with guests through their screen-like blacked-out sunglasses in a move expanded on from the menswear show. However, if the menswear was defined by a predominantly black and white palette, the womenswear collection offered a softer range.
Black, charcoal, brown, and beige formed a natural range of earth tones broken up twice by a surprise pop of red and blue. Many of the pieces emphasized the neutrality of the collection’s uniform, featuring tricks noticeable only to the most observant eye. Trench coats were cut at the waist, and striped polos were sharpened by right-angle shoulders using removable pads. Tonal mesh was also utilized in more than one way. First as an overlay for crinkled knit sets and blouses, second as stand-alone sheer-tops paired with pants that featured exaggerated, un-trimmed seams.
Even though Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela debut has yet to be officially announced, the designer was spotted in attendance, fresh off the heels of his mega Diesel collection. Martens, who is known for signature deconstruction of textiles, particularly denim, was recently confirmed as Maison Margiela’s creative director. 2024 marked one of the biggest years for the house’s popularity since Martin’s departure with the Artisanal SS24 collection that instantaneously sent shockwaves through the industry.
With Martens’ Diesel tenure and cult-popular Jean Paul Gaultier Couture collaboration as a portfolio indication of his deconstruction abilities, many are anxiously awaiting to see what he will do.
In the meantime, you can check out MM6’s full Fall/Winter 2025 Collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for all things Milan Fashion Week.
