Thom Browne Saunters in Moody, yet Refined Fantasy for FW24
Closing out NYFW like only Browne can.
“NEVERMORE. NEVERMORE. NEVERMORRREEEEEEE,” yelled a recording of actor Carrie Coon reciting Edgar Allen Poe’s “The Raven” before the light fell and booming applause filled The Shed. Thom Browne did it again. He closed NYFW with the best show of the week, marked by an unparalleled exhibition of intrigue, romance and design poetry.
For his Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Browne looked to Edgar Allen Poe’s poem, “The Raven,” for inspiration. As such, Browne’s sense of fanciful, yet tailoring-centric dressing was met with a darker edge. Opening the show was a semi-distraught mother-like figure who continued prancing around the entire snow-clad set followed by her children (all clad in little Thom Browne suits of course). With each passing moment of Coon’s boomingly serious voice, the montage of decadent looks slowly flowed through the moody winterscape.
In tow was Browne’s signature tailoring that came in both classic structured and warped silhouettes. One moment you’ll find a paneled off-the-shoulder tweed overcoat paired with a black pencil dress. The next, you’ll find a remixed tuxedo that thrusts the classic style into Browne’s unorthodoxly forward-thinking world. The collection was almost entirely tossed in black, white and gray, which continues the American designer’s commitment to monochromatic themes that force the eye on what matters most, garment design.
Further nodding to the poem, select garments from overcoats to dresses with embedded with black raven motifs. But one of the crown moments of the show was the final two-tiered gold bird look worn by model Alex Consani that revealed a blooming gold full cape on the outside and a gold chainmail cardigan with a dusty gold/white skirt on the interior. In Browne tradition, the designer came out at the show’s end with a large red box of chocolates for his husband, Andrew Bolton – a closing testament to love and the true fantasy of fashion.
Take a look at Thom Browne’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery and video above.
