Moschino FW24 Brings Theatricality to Signature House Tropes
Adrian Appiolaza makes his debut for Moschino just three weeks after he was appointed creative director.
While there was much to celebrate with the appointment of Adrian Appiolaza as Moschino‘s new creative director, it is also imbued with a sense of sadness due to his predecessor Davide Renne‘s sudden death, shortly after he was made creative director. Only receiving the appointment himself about three weeks ago, Appiolaza paid tribute to the man who started this all — Franco Moschino. With a short period of time, Appiolaza reached back into the Italian house’s archives for its Fall/Winter 2024 collection, an ode to the Moschino legacy, presented during Milan Fashion Week.
Prior to Appiolaza, Jeremy Scott helmed the brand for just under a decade before exiting last March. Often considered the “King of Camp,” Appiolaza set out to honor the brand’s past, focusing on wearability to the collection. Often, Scott’s designs were intricate, dramatic and very likely ineffaceable. However, as indelible as they were, Scott’s collections were less for everyday wear. With Appiolaza’s first collection, the designer takes a ready-to-wear approach, all while bringing back some of the house’s most iconic silhouettes.
Taking a broader approach to the Moschino interpretation, Appiolaza still maintains the theatric tone set by Scott with its smiley face print, playful cloud pattern and polka dot usage. Many of its pieces promoted peace and love, slogans often used throughout the years at Moschino. Oversized silhouettes saw deconstructed suits of undone neckties, open blazers and untucked button ups paired together. The collection continued to be eccentric pairing asymmetrical ruffles with smiley face accessories contrasting question mark emblazoned sets. While eccentricity was at the forefront, wearability was the underlying force. For his debut collection, Appiolaza continues to bring the intrigue to the Moschino runway — take a look at the full collection above.
