Aviation Meets the Renaissance Period at Lanvin Winter 2023
Bruno Sialelli unearth’s the House’s history and makes it relevant for today.
Lanvin, like many others this season, is looking to the past in order to find its current-day aesthetic. For Winter 2023, Bruno Sialelli unearths the House’s history (for it is the oldest fashion house still operating in Paris), recontextualizing components from both the 1940s and the 1980s with tweaks, treatments, and references that make the collection feel timeless and thus, simultaneously contemporary.
The Renaissance period — an era that Jeanne Lanvin often reflected upon herself — also comes into play this season. With this mishmash of epochs, it’s possible to make a collection that feels complicated, but Sialelli proves that the ages can work in harmony.
Studs from the ’80s mimic polka dots from longer ago, wool and silk are rich in color and texture per the 18th Century, and velvet only continues to ooze this level of decadence. Sequins, crystals, handmade embroideries, bouclé tweed in a technicolor whirl of guava and bubblegum, as well as various greens, lipstick red and golds, all work together to present Lanvin’s vision for classically-inspired clothing that’s cut and considered for today.
Sometimes, such references are incredibly subtle — metallic blue leather gloves update a gentlemanly double-breasted coat, while cape coats in wine red serve an air of wrapping up in opulence, à la Renaissance. Croc-embossed leather coats are both ’40s and ’80s in cut and style, as is the flight jacket that brings up thoughts of functionality and, in the ’80s, a subversive style borrowed from your dad.
Lanvin’s Winter 2023 collection is an exploration of everything that makes the House. Check it out for yourself in the gallery above.
Elsewhere, you can find all the Paris Fashion Week FW23 shows here.
