GCDS FW23 Escapes Into the Mythical World of 'Alice In Wonderland'

Presenting an enchanting collection dominated by otherworldly proportions and whimsical designs that walk on an unconventional line of fantasy.

Fashion
2,893 Hypes 2 Comments

Tolling bells marked the commencement of GCDSFall/Winter 2023 showcase, enchanted by fanatical motifs pulled from imaginary tales. Held in Milan’s grand Palazzo del Ghiaccio, whimsical ornamentation decorated the space as global pop stars — including J Balvin and Dua Lipa — flooded the room, awaiting to see what co-founder Giuliano Calza would deliver.

Promptly after, an operational sculpture of Calza’s cat Kittho — made to mimic ‘Alice In Wonderland’s’ Cheshire Cat — was unveiled with bright eyes and active paw movements. Eerie tunes quickly followed as models approached the runway, stepping into their own fabled tale. Whimsical yet equally jarring, every look arrived with outlandish proportions and a fictitious feel. First off, an aviator-inspired leather uniform was matched with a sleek necktie and a trapezoid-shaped handbag, followed by zippered suiting and sherpa-lined suede coats in vibrant yellow tones. Next, distressed knitwear was matched with worn-out leather bottoms, which worked alongside fuzzy dresses with angular shoulders and the animal’s textured coating.

Skin-tight corsets were layered atop asymmetrical shirting accessorized with miniature bowties and dangling silver spheres, while shimmering trousers reached into models’ chests outlining their delicate figures. Furthermore, leather skirts were fashioned with cloud-like detailing at the hems worn equally as high, also highlighting eloquent pink tweed ensembles. Standard leather jackets were escorted next to frayed denim shorts that revealed sprouting moss-like textiles beneath, which graced dismantled tops and jumbo-sized coats.

FW23 saw GCDS make calls on antique bakelite telephones, turning them into bag handles with otherworldly energy. As for footwear, the brand supplied a series of unconventional creations featuring heelless heels (if you will), studded loafers, and knee-high metallic boots alongside further variations that replaced stilettos with jarring animal teeth.

Hypebeast caught up with Giuliano Calza, who personally walked us through the concept of his FW23 collection.

What was your ideation process while creating the collection?

Giuliano Calza: This year I really want to reduce the distance between my perceived public persona and who I truely am, creating a collection that you would keep in your closet forever. This is what I truly enjoy on a daily base, and I think that as a designer it is more personal than just creating a collection.

How did you find inspiration for the collection? Tell me the story behind it.

GC: I’ve decided to investigate what’s very dear to me and what I really like. I didn’t look outside for inspiration but literally observed what happens in my household, my cat, my books, the textures of my furniture. These are objects with great memories. I took tiny bits and translated them into a collection. The people that are familiar enough with me, will see little details as an homage to my life. In terms of silhouettes, I had to look back in the past, mostly in my parent’s house and in their wardrobes.

If you could communicate one thing to your audience with this collection, what would it be?

GC: Your own self and your own ideas are the most powerful message when privacy becomes a luxury. Identity and personality for me are the greatest thing you can offer to the others. Ideas and design over a moment.

Take a closer look at GCDS’ FW23 collection in the gallery above.

Elsewhere at Milan Fashion Week, MM6 Maison Margiela FW23 recontextualizes daily layering concepts.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

GCDS FW24 "Toys for Adults" Is a Cherished Display of Forgotten Fun
Fashion

GCDS FW24 "Toys for Adults" Is a Cherished Display of Forgotten Fun

Leaving the shackles of maturity behind with a youthful Hello Kitty collaboration.

Diesel FW24 Turned Zoom Callers Into the Stars of the Show
Fashion

Diesel FW24 Turned Zoom Callers Into the Stars of the Show

Under the watchful eyes of 1,000 virtual attendees projected on the walls of its runway, the Glenn Martens-led brand pushed its zestful signatures in a more mature direction.

Zegna FW24 Reshapes Cashmere Into a New Set of Classics
Fashion

Zegna FW24 Reshapes Cashmere Into a New Set of Classics

At Milan’s Allianz Mico, creative director Alessandro Sartori sent his designs on a carousel around a humungous heap of bright orange woolen scraps.


Missoni FW24 Is a Kaleidoscope of Geometric Stripes
Fashion

Missoni FW24 Is a Kaleidoscope of Geometric Stripes

Creative director Filippo Grazioli utilized varying straight lines to make traditional masculine and feminine style tropes appear modern.

'People Are Strange' in George Condo's Latest Exhibition
Art

'People Are Strange' in George Condo's Latest Exhibition

On view at Hauser & Wirth’s new location in West Hollywood.

Stone Island Delivers Nylon Metal Outerwear for SS23
Fashion

Stone Island Delivers Nylon Metal Outerwear for SS23

The signature, weather-resistant fabric is updated with ECONYL® regenerated yarns.

Sergio Tacchini SS23 Takes Angus Cloud and Nico Hiraga to the Tennis Court
Fashion

Sergio Tacchini SS23 Takes Angus Cloud and Nico Hiraga to the Tennis Court

Shot by Aidan Cullen, the SoCal-set campaign spotlights the sportswear label’s liking for striking colors and commanding prints.

Skrillex Travels Through Bangkok With Yung Lean and Bladee in New “Ceremony” Music Video
Music

Skrillex Travels Through Bangkok With Yung Lean and Bladee in New “Ceremony” Music Video

Off of the DJ’s surprise LP ‘Don’t Get Too Close.’

New Balance 580 Emerges With a "Castlerock" Motif
Footwear

New Balance 580 Emerges With a "Castlerock" Motif

Subtle navy suede overlays contribute to its winter-friendly palette.


Princess Nokia Raps About a “Complicated” Relationship on First Track From Forthcoming Breakup EP
Music

Princess Nokia Raps About a “Complicated” Relationship on First Track From Forthcoming Breakup EP

The project is out in full on March 14.

Frank Ocean Releases New Merch
Fashion

Frank Ocean Releases New Merch

The upcoming Coachella headliner adds new Blonded Radio pieces and LSD-themed items to his arsenal.

MM6 Maison Margiela FW23 Recontextualizes Daily Layering Concepts
Fashion

MM6 Maison Margiela FW23 Recontextualizes Daily Layering Concepts

Previewing deconstructed ensembles shredded and matched with unconventional underpinnings.

YONY FW23 Presents Refined Americana With a Transparent Supply Chain
Fashion

YONY FW23 Presents Refined Americana With a Transparent Supply Chain

The range embraces Western style and polished workwear with ethically-sourced textiles.

Prada FW23 "Recycling Beauty" Redefines the Formal Uniform With a Blooming Mindset
Fashion

Prada FW23 "Recycling Beauty" Redefines the Formal Uniform With a Blooming Mindset

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons returned to Milan, presenting a delicate offering of formal attire that reevaluates beauty in its purest form.

More ▾
 
We got you covered. Don’t miss out on the latest news by signing up for our newsletters.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.