S.S. Daley SS23 Was a Love Letter to Vita Sackville-West and Violet Trefusis

Models turned into curious showmen, reciting dated love notes shared between the couple for all to hear.

Fashion 
2,860 Hypes 0 Comments

As one of Britain’s most influential young designers, S.S. DALEY has set his mark as an emerging talent to watch. Returning to the London Fashion Week calendar for the third time, he now presents his Spring/Summer 2023 collection. For FW22, Steven Stokey-Daley called into question the dissolution of stately homes in the 20th century. London dance school students took part in a theatrical performance that saw the designer pay tribute to the union of theatre and movement.

SS23 delivered an alternative storyline, as Daley forged through colonial love letters in his latest collection, “Vita.” The mystical performance took attendees through a looking glass, peeking at the notes shared between 19th-century author Vita Sackville-West and socialite Violet Trefusis. As a homage to queer women living in the patriarchal era, Daley sets theatrics in motion rooted in a garden-like setting.

Held in London’s historical St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, dramatic bells rang as the presentation commenced. With this, treading actors slowly made their way around the runway, each grasping a candle and dressed in muted blazers, dress shirts, sweater vests and morning coats, the latter representing Vita and Violet through ribbon detailing.

The energy quickly shifted, a symphony of rapid trumpets filling the air. Flowers made a grand impact, communicating Vita’s beloved gardening hobby emblazoned on cotton twill utility sets, Irish linen wide-cut summer shirts, floor-length balloon sleeve shirts and dapper striped robes. Daley opened the doors to the author’s gardening shed embroidered into merino wool sweaters.

Often referenced in the couple’s letters, bunnies and hares were depicted throughout as models donned whiskers, along with chucklesome animal ears and “BUNNY BOY” branded tops.

Patchwork shirts constructed from tea-towels pay homage to the designer’s artistic design language, while the same style appeared on bags, marking Daley’s debut into accessories. Eyewear crafted in collaboration with Dan Levy’s DL Eyewear arrives in three frame options, while footwear produced by Malone Souliers was also presented.

As Steven Stokey-Daley showcased his long-awaited SS23 collection, models swiftly turned into curious showmen, reciting dated love notes for all to hear. Notions of romance and despair filled the room until the end, conveying a sense of bordered queerness that engulfed the era.

S.S. DALEY’s SS23 collection “Vita” can be seen in the gallery above. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for more London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 content as the week goes on, and be sure to catch live content on @HypebeastUK.

In other news, JW Anderson SS23 hit the jackpot.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

16Arlington SS23 Was a Symbol of Everlasting Love
Fashion 

16Arlington SS23 Was a Symbol of Everlasting Love

“Forget Me Not: a wildflower with petals of dusty pink and faded lilac-blue. A symbol of true and eternal love, devotion, and remembrance.”

NOKI SS23 Wasn't a Fashion Show, It Was a Celebration of Rave Culture, Queerness and Art
Fashion 

NOKI SS23 Wasn't a Fashion Show, It Was a Celebration of Rave Culture, Queerness and Art

Looks like “KOMMITED TO KATE,” “MONKEY POX,” and “KAREN WITH A K” proved Dr. Noki beats to his own drum.

BMUET(TE) SS23 Was Steeped In Historical Schoolboy References
Fashion 

BMUET(TE) SS23 Was Steeped In Historical Schoolboy References

The brand displayed a recharged design note: eerie, gothic, yet cutesy with a dash of medieval poise.


RUIRUI DENG SS23 Was a Journey Through the Middle Ages
Fashion 

RUIRUI DENG SS23 Was a Journey Through the Middle Ages

An homage to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

MiHoYo and Ufotable Developing 'Genshin Impact' Anime
Entertainment

MiHoYo and Ufotable Developing 'Genshin Impact' Anime

Billed as “long-term project.”

HUMAN MADE Delivers Second "HOUSEWARE" Collection
Design

HUMAN MADE Delivers Second "HOUSEWARE" Collection

Offering the capsule in a hue of white.

The Game Speaks on Dissing Eminem in “The Black Slim Shady"
Music

The Game Speaks on Dissing Eminem in “The Black Slim Shady"

Noting that “as far as it being personal, it’s not personal.”

Sony Delays Release Date of Chris Pratt's 'Garfield' Movie
Entertainment

Sony Delays Release Date of Chris Pratt's 'Garfield' Movie

The upcoming reboot was thankfully not rescheduled to a Monday.

Kanye West Files New Trademarks for Donda Sports Accessories, Sportswear, Apparel
Fashion

Kanye West Files New Trademarks for Donda Sports Accessories, Sportswear, Apparel

Along with athletic services for Dove Sports and equipment for Donda Doves.


BLACKPINK Is 'BORN PINK' in Sophomore Studio Album
Music

BLACKPINK Is 'BORN PINK' in Sophomore Studio Album

Also dropping a music video for “Shut Down.”

JW Anderson SS23 Hit the Jackpot
Fashion 

JW Anderson SS23 Hit the Jackpot

Taking over a London casino arcade, Jonathan Anderson presented a neon-lit runway that showed the fun side of fashion.

Molly Goddard Sticks to Her Roots for SS23
Fashion 

Molly Goddard Sticks to Her Roots for SS23

While also welcoming a footwear line bolstered by cowboy boots.

Dilara Fındıkoğlu SS23 Portrays Life’s Road to Freedom
Fashion 

Dilara Fındıkoğlu SS23 Portrays Life’s Road to Freedom

As Victorian sophistication plays on innocence.

Canelo Álvarez and the Dior x Air Jordan 1 for HYPEBEAST’s Sole Mates
Footwear 

Canelo Álvarez and the Dior x Air Jordan 1 for HYPEBEAST’s Sole Mates

The super middleweight boxing champion shares his love for the iconic designer collaboration.

More ▾
 
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Looks like you’re using an ad-blocker

We charge advertisers instead of our readers. Support us by whitelisting our site.

Whitelist Us

How to Whitelist Us

screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlock icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Under “Pause on this site” click “Always”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlock Plus icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Block ads on – This website” switch off the toggle to turn it from blue to gray.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the AdBlocker Ultimate icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Switch off the toggle to turn it from “Enabled on this site” to “Disabled on this site”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the Ghostery icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Click on the “Ad-Blocking” button at the bottom. It will turn gray and the text above will go from “ON” to “OFF”.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the UBlock Origin icon in the browser extension area in the upper right-hand corner.
  2. Click on the large blue power icon at the top.
  3. When it turns gray, click the refresh icon that has appeared next to it or click the button below to continue.
screenshot
  1. Click the icon of the ad-blocker extension installed on your browser.You’ll usually find this icon in the upper right-hand corner of your screen. You may have more than one ad-blocker installed.
  2. Follow the instructions for disabling the ad blocker on the site you’re viewing.You may have to select a menu option or click a button.
  3. Refresh the page or click the button below to continue.