Rick Owens' SS23 "EDFU" Collection Brings Color, Exaggeration and Reflection

The designer continues to build on his established extreme aesthetic codes.

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Taking over the Palais de Tokyo fountain once again for Paris Fashion Week, Rick Owens shared his eponymous label’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Titled “EDFU,” the site of the Ptolemaic Temple of Horus, the range follows the designer’s recent vacation in Egypt. Inspired by the movement of Egypt’s cultural aesthetic that remained for millennia despite the long passing of its creators, Owens further reflected on his place in fashion.

For SS23, Rick Owens built on his established extreme aesthetic codes, setting the stage with three flaming metal orbs that crashed into the fountain periodically through the show. The creation follows destruction message carried over into the collection as the designer tore into his own look template. Developing various reimaginations of his contemporary signature styles, including his popular platform Kiss Boots.

Delving into the world of technical wear, Rick Owens developed inverted jackets, shirts and pants with ripstop nylon and Dyneema, known as one of the strongest textiles in the world. Choice styles were created with Paradoxe, a Parisian label that upcycles denim by reimaging its construction, and crafted with pirarucu, a food by-product of Amazonian fish skin. The striking displays developed hits of pop-color yellow, pink, green and purple that contrasted the usual Rick Owens’ gray, black, white color palette.

Rounding up the “EDFU” collection, Rick Owens’ developed full-body tulle looks, inspired by the mosquito nets from his recent vacation, and upwards-turning shoulder designs, drawn from the ceremonial garb of ancient Egypt.

Check out the imagery from Rick Owens’s SS23 “EDFU” collection above and watch the show below.

For more contemporary fashion, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s SS23 collection delivers form and function.

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