Matthieu Blazy Reimagines the Layered Legacies of Gabrielle Chanel for SS27
The runway presentation channeled themes of freedom through smocked tweed, fluid suiting and an energetic soundtrack.
Summary
Matthieu Blazy presented the Chanel Spring/Summer 2027 collection exploring the evolving identities of founder Gabrielle Chanel
The runway highlighted themes of liberation backed by a soundtrack shifting from You Don't Own Me to a remix of Gimme More
The energetic musical transition brought a star-studded front row including Nicole Kidman Pedro Pascal and Dua Lipa to their feet
Chanel and Matthieu Blazy have presented the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled La Conversation – Part Three – Different Faces of the Same Coin. The collection examines the multi-layered history and style trajectory of founder Gabrielle Chanel, centering on the overarching theme of freedom. As guests enter the Grand Palais, they were greeted with a flock of bird-like lanterns resembling a cascade of birds in migration. The vibrantly painted floors reflected the birds aflight, just like how it would look if they flew over a the shimmering surface of a riverbed.
The collection charts a course from the strictures of Edwardian corsetry to revolutionary, unconstrained suiting, leaving historical details behind as subtle remnants through lines of shadow boning, peplum flourishes, ruffled collars, and curved bodices. Blazy deconstructs masculine formal wear into raw-edged gilets, tailored trousers, and pencil-skirt suits, while 1930s-style evening gowns arrive bias-cut, sequined, or beaded with the weightless ease of a T-shirt. Lightweight flou mimics the time-lapse of cloud formations through layered silk transparencies, shifting from morning tones to nightfall.
Technical innovation anchors the collection’s final chapter with the debut of “smocked tweed.” Engineered as a stretch performance garment, the material adapts to the body like a second skin, delivering weightless mobility while maintaining traditional suiting aesthetics. Avian motifs—specifically swifts and swallows—appear across embroidery, hardware, and jewelry to embody freedom. Accessories cycle through time, anchored by model Dyanira Hurbuscher carrying Gabrielle’s archival 2.55 bag alongside new watch-chain flap bags, cloud-printed leather goods, and a birdcage minaudiere.
The prevailing theme of liberation extended directly into the show’s atmosphere. Transitioning from Lesley Gore’s “You Don’t Own Me” into an energetic remix of Britney Spears’ “Gimme More,” the soundtrack prompted the entire front row—including Nicole Kidman, Ayo Edebiri, Pedro Pascal, Kristen Wiig, Dua Lipa, and Alexa Demie—to break into dance.
