sacai Men’s SS27 Collides Preppy Heritage and Sound System Culture in "The New Classics"
Designer Chitose Abe unleashes an intellectual fashion intervention in Paris, splicing Brooks Brothers tailoring, Soul II Soul iconography, and hybrid Birkenstocks
sacai has officially unveiled its Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, delivering a deeply conceptual presentation titled “THE NEW CLASSICS.” Staged during Paris Fashion Week, creative director Chitose Abe utilized the runway as an intellectual intervention, deliberately colliding the rigid, historically conservative codes of traditional preppy tailoring with the non-conservative, vibrant energies of contemporary subcultures to liberate menswear from static design traditions.
The structural core of the collection thrives on the philosophy of liberating form from stasis. sacai effortlessly injected technical utility into historic menswear archetypes, highlighted by an official collaboration with quintessential American heritage brand Brooks Brothers. Conservative navy blazers and sharp garments were seamlessly sliced, layered, and re-engineered with sacai’s signature hybridization methods. These preppy foundations were dynamically disrupted by completely reconstructed necklines, raw seams, and the inclusion of liberated, functional chin ties, transforming static dress codes into fluid, contemporary streetwear statements.
The collection derived its emotional rhythm from a partnership with the legendary London sound system Soul II Soul. Reflecting a shared ethos of positivity, inclusivity, and love, the apparel integrated a custom textile printed with archival images from the collective’s groundbreaking Sunday night sessions at Covent Garden’s The Africa Centre. Streetwear mainstays like T-shirts, cardigans, bomber jackets, and sweats were decorated with the famous Funki Dred emblem alongside universally recognized track titles, including “Back to Life” and “Keep on Moving.”
This subversive energy was grounded underfoot through a major collaboration with BIRKENSTOCK. Blending sacai’s penchant for multi-layering with BIRKENSTOCK’s heritage craftsmanship dating back to 1774, the collection debuted a hybrid, multi-strapped silhouette that fuses iconic models like the Boston clog and Arizona sandal into a singular, dimensional form. This footwear was accompanied by a matching utility bag, lined in the same premium taupe and black suede found on the sandals, featuring BIRKENSTOCK’s signature bone-pattern outsole across the exterior bottom and finished with an adjustable orthopedic-style strap and square buckle. A few of the Birkenstocks received legendary tattoo artist, Dr. Woo’s signature
