Picture a vintage green Mexico jersey — the kind you’d find balled up in a thrift bin, boxy and oversized, the kind built to swim on you. Now picture it shirred at the waist, corseted into a fit so specific it looks custom-drafted. That’s the jump DIY label Recovered made — reworking vintage soccer jerseys into one-of-a-kind statement pieces — and it’s the jump that’s since taken over your feed.

Scroll through your feed right now and the proof is everywhere: shirred panels, scrunched seams, cropped hems on jerseys — and now jackets — that were never built to fit this close. Far from your average sustainable label, Recovered doesn’t just thrift and resell. It dissects iconic vintage soccer jerseys and reassembles them into crop tops, corsets and bold silhouettes that don’t exist anywhere else — and the technique behind it didn’t appear out of nowhere. It traces back to one designer, working alone, turning a happy accident into a signature so in-demand that her drops sell out on sight.

Behind every shirred seam is Mia Marquez, the designer who turned an offhand experiment into a signature — and this summer she’s bringing it to Hypebeast Cup New York, customizing jerseys live at the SoHo hub from July 5th to 10th. We caught up with her to talk about the art of jersey reconstruction, the future of upcycling, and how she’s redefining sporty streetwear for the girls.

Hypebeast: When did you first get into fashion design?

Mia Marquez: Working in fashion has always been a dream of mine. From a young age, my favorite activities would always involve fashion, whether it was a DIY bedazzling kit or wandering the fashion book aisle at Barnes & Noble. It wasn’t until 2020 during lockdown that I decided to buy a sewing machine and give it my all.

You’re one of the pioneers of the popular ruching and shirring technique in jersey design. How did you land on that technique?

To be quite honest, I just got too lazy to finish the rest of the top. It was around February of 2024 where I really wanted to start experimenting with football jerseys. I’ve tried other sport upcycles in the past, but something about this jersey felt so me. When I got my green Mexico jersey to rework, I had also wanted to try out a new technique which was shirring. I was really just practicing on that top and going with the flow. I took a break to try on the top and I was like, “Whoa, I think I just did something here.”

How have your design methods changed since you launched Recovered?

Once I started reworking football jerseys and sportswear pieces, it really felt like I finally found myself. Everything I create, I create because I genuinely love it. I don’t think my methods have really changed because I’ve always created in the moment and have stayed true to myself. If anything I’ve just allowed myself to be even more experimental.

Why football jerseys?

I’ve tried other sport upcycles in the past and nothing has compared. My first one was a Mexico jersey, and being Mexican, nothing inspires me more than my culture. I love the excitement, meaning and the culture that all of these jerseys represent all over the world.

Now that retro jerseys are incredibly popular in the United States, how has sourcing materials changed for you?

I still source all of my pieces secondhand. I am actively on Depop, Poshmark, and eBay and all the secondhand websites daily. Nothing has really changed. I did have a few very low-key websites I would source from, but their prices have definitely gone up.

What have been your favorite designs so far?

I have so many, but I have to pick the original: my green Mexico jersey. That jersey really started an insane trend, and not only did it open so many doors for me, I also felt like I finally found myself and my true passion within my work. After that one I would say the Juventus jersey with the pink trim. She is loud and beautiful. I just love how sports and fashion can go together so well.

You have collaborated with major brands since launching your own line. What is it like to see your creations get the recognition they deserve?

It really does mean a lot to me to finally feel seen. I’ve had a couple designs in the past get copied by large brands like my “Stop copying me you’re not even doing it right” T-shirt, which was ironic because I made that because I was getting copied so much. So for these brands choosing to collaborate with me instead of just copying really does mean the world to me. It’s been such a rollercoaster but I truly believe what’s meant to be will be and you will get what you deserve in the end.

Women’s fashion in soccer and sports in general is having a major moment right now. How do you see the space evolving in the future?

I am extremely passionate about creating and I truly do feel like I’ve found myself in this space. I have endless ideas flowing but I have one special one that I’ve had written down for years. I think it’s time I finally make that dream come true.

See Recovered in person at Hypebeast Cup New York, where Marquez will be customizing jerseys July 5th to 10th in SoHo.