Categorisation doesn’t really work for Kwangho Lee. His work, spanning sculpture, design and material experimentation, has never settled comfortably into a single discipline, so instead, he moves between them. Simple.

However, that doesn’t mean he lacks an aesthetic or red thread. Weaving, in particular, underpins much of what he does, and is the focus for his “Lightful”, his latest installation for Bottega Veneta, presented during Milan Design Week.

After studying Metal Art & Design at Hongik University, Lee’s projects went on to incorporate everything from industrial wire to organic fibres, often pushing familiar techniques into less predictable territory.

Within Bottega Veneta, that experimental mindset is applied to leather, specifically through its signature Intrecciato.

“I felt a strong desire to be more assertive,” he says. “I have always defined my artistic identity through the technique of weaving, it is the medium through which I communicate my thoughts and my very existence.”

The installation consists of a series of suspended woven forms that vary in scale and density. Some appear loose and open, with strands extending outward; others are more compact, forming heavier, more structured volumes. Rather than presenting a single focal point, the work unfolds across the space.

“For this collaboration, it wasn’t simply a matter of transporting a finished piece into the venue,” Lee explains. “It required a profound understanding of both the collaboration and the physical space itself.”

While the initial concept was developed in advance, the final composition took shape on site. Lee describes the process as one of “experimentation and dialogue,” responding to the architecture of the store and adjusting the work in real time, “the definitive completion of my work only truly happens on-site with people,” he adds.

As for the installation’s title, it comes from the fact that light plays a central role in how it is experienced. Shadows and highlights alter the apparent density and scale of each piece, with natural light changing how it appears throughout the day.

Lightful continues the ongoing collaboration between Lee and Bottega Veneta. This is their third project together, following earlier work that included runway elements and participation in the Weaving the World exhibition in Seoul. In preparation, Lee visited the brand’s atelier in Montebello Vicentino, gaining a closer understanding of its production methods and craftsmanship.

In a world saturated with forced collaboration, the fact that Lee has spent time with the brand is evident. Lightful is unmistakably Lee’s work, but it also totally remains grounded in the technical precision associated with the house. The result is a balance between experimentation and control, where traditional techniques are extended rather than replaced.

He then invites the visitor to become the third collaborator: “rather than embedding ‘hidden details’ for people to solve,” Lee says, “I want my work to act as a catalyst. I want people to encounter these woven forms and feel something entirely their own.”