How NÒMARHYTHM TEXTILE’s Flaws Won Over Nike and Needles

The Tokyo label is celebrating 20 years of blurring the line between fashion and art.

WORDS BY JOYCE LI
PHOTOS BY MARC WONG

This article originally appeared in Hypebeast Magazine #37: The Architects Issue. Order a copy via HBX.

In a fashion era dictated by algorithms, surviving two decades as an independent label is rare. For Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki, founders of Tokyo-based NÒMARHYTHM TEXTILE (formerly NOMA t.d.), longevity means mastering an internal tempo rather than chasing the market. Celebrating their 20th anniversary, the duo’s rebrand is a philosophical declaration of creative integrity over relentless industry calendars.

Founded in 2005, the brand is an organic collision of disciplines. Noguchi, with his fine arts pedigree, views garments as canvases, while Sasaki contributes a commercially-honed retail eye. By blending artistic imagination with a buyer’s pragmatism, they have altered the Tokyo fashion landscape, proving artisanal exclusivity and contemporary edge can beautifully coexist.

Rejecting digital perfectionism, NÒMARHYTHM TEXTILE anchors its work in tactile warmth, beginning every print and embroidery with a physical sketch. By preserving imperfect ink bleeds and wavering lines, their bright, pattern-heavy wardrobe retains a handcrafted soul. The brand weaves floral emblems and classic paisley motifs into complex patchwork jacquards, applying these rich textiles to avant-garde sportswear and workwear silhouettes. From acid-wash vests to vivid cardigans, their collections seamlessly balance playful artistry with refined wearability.

This mastery is evident in their iconic “Draw Your Garden” motif. Born during the 2020 pandemic when Noguchi observed flowers pushing through city concrete, the composition takes the brand’s signature, recurring paisley pattern — a bespoke nod to the conventional bandana — and expands it into a sprawling, wearable landscape. The design encapsulates their ethos: studying a pattern’s history, dismantling it, and subjecting it to rigorous trial until it is entirely their own.

NÒMARHYTHM’s founders spent 13 years refining their voice in isolation before opening their doors to global collaborators like Nike, Jordan Brand, NEEDLES, and Stüssy. These partnerships have given the Tokyo label an expansive global reach, bridging their meticulous, handcrafted textile focus with the massive platforms of seasoned industry giants. Stepping into this newly rebranded chapter, Noguchi and Sasaki sit down with us to discuss their two-decade evolution. Speaking together as a unified front, the founders reflect on the beauty of human error, their landmark collaborations, and how they continue to move beautifully, deliberately, and to their own unique rhythm.

“What we have valued above all else is moving in sync with our own internal rhythm.” – Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki

How did merging your respective fine arts and retail backgrounds help fill a gap in the apparel market?

Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki: Both of us were always drawn to clothing that blends a sense of hand-crafted exclusivity with a contemporary edge. To be honest, we didn’t start the brand with a marketing-driven mindset or the intention to even fill a gap in the market. Since our individual strengths were entirely different, it allowed us to seamlessly merge our two perspectives.

After two decades, what sparked the rebrand from NOMA t.d to NÒMARHYTHM TEXTILE?

NÒMARHYTHM was born on the milestone of our 20th anniversary. What we have valued above all else is not aligning ourselves directly with the era or the market, but rather moving in sync with our own internal rhythm. Sometimes we accelerate, sometimes we slow down; we might keep a steady beat or deliberately break it. We believe this free-flowing pace is what defines our originality and allows us to create with integrity.

What are some creative influences that shape your aesthetic?

We aren’t influenced by any specific individual in our creation. Connecting with diverse individuals — artists, musicians, architects — has become essential to our creative output and we value the history and context of textiles. We study the history of a motif (like a flower) and undergo a repeated process of testing to make it our own. Our philosophy is not to end in self-satisfaction, but to ensure it functions properly as fashion.

From initial sketch to final fabric, how much human error do you intentionally preserve?

This is where we are most meticulous. We choose to work by hand because it instills an emotion. We believe that human errors — ink bleeds or the subtle wavering of a line — are essential elements that give a fabric a sense of warmth and life.

How do you balance traditional Japanese hand-dyeing techniques while ensuring your pieces look contemporary?

We do use traditional techniques, but we see it as our mission to translate incredible techniques from around the world into the fashion climate of now.

What is the story behind your iconic “Draw Your Garden” pattern, and what drew you to explore organic, botanical chaos?

It finally took shape during the 2020 pandemic. We were deeply moved by the flowers we saw blooming in the cracks of buildings. Based on that experience, we used our imagination to “draw a garden” in our minds. Although it was based on a bandana motif, we deliberately chose not to use “bandana” in the title.

“We aren’t really conscious of the boundary between design and art.”

How does your commercial background influence the label’s artistic approach? Are there disagreements in your attempts to balance creativity and wearability?

We aren’t really conscious of the boundary between design and art. At our core, we were always just fashion-obsessed kids. Because that is our foundation, wearability is very important to us. Since clothing is the closest thing to one’s skin, we want it to be something that uplifts the wearer.

Do you approach a textile design differently when you create fabric for furniture versus apparel?

The approach is significantly different. We find great joy in understanding those differences and crossing the boundaries. Since our very first season, we have embraced things that were once considered taboo, such as using interior materials for fashion or using motifs that are traditionally considered too large for garments.

Over the years, you’ve collaborated with major global players like Needles and Stüssy. What is the biggest challenge when approaching collaborations?

For the first 13 years, we deliberately avoided collaborations and focused on working solo. That time spent refining our identity is exactly what allows us to speak as equal partners with large brands today. What matters most is whether we can share a brand philosophy.

“We believe that human errors — ink bleeds or the subtle wavering of a line — are essential elements that give a fabric a sense of warmth and life.”

How have your on-going collaborations with Nike and Jordan Brand continued to add to NÒMARHYTHM’s artisanal evolution?

Our partnership with Nike has spanned over five years now. We were surprised that such a massive company would reach out to a small brand like ours, but we felt their incredible depth and it made us believe in our own potential. We feel a real sense of accomplishment knowing that our small team can execute such large-scale projects. We kicked off our partnership with the Jordan Brand last February, wrapping the entire facade of Harajuku’s iconic 6142 building in a custom hand-created “Draw Your Garden” textile print. Executing a project of this scale had been a long-term brand goal, and to see it fully realized inside the very heart of Tokyo’s street culture meant a great deal to us.

Looking back over the last 20 years, was there a definitive turning point for the brand? And what will you explore next?

The aforementioned “Draw Your Garden” as well as “CAMOFLOWER” were both pivotal developments where we felt we were able to successfully give shape to our own voice. These will continue to be defining patterns for many seasons to come. We want to see how far we can push our textile expression into different genres and hope to create an even greater impact on society.

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