Marni Bids Farewell to Francesco Risso

Summary

• On Wednesday, Marni confirmed the exit of Creative Director Francesco Risso, after 10 years at the brand. Though the OTB-owned label has yet to announce a replacement, rumors speculate on the return of a female creative director.

In an official statement shared with Vogue, Marni confirmed on Wednesday morning that its Creative Director of 10 years, Francesco Risso, is exiting the brand. Appointed in 2016, the designer has been the Italian label’s only Creative Director, aside from founder Consuelo Castiglioni, who started the brand in 1994.

“I will always be grateful to Renzo [Rosso] for believing in me, for giving me the front seat on a journey that became more than I could have imagined,” Rosso shared with Vogue. “Marni has been a studio, a stage, a dream. It carried color, instinct, care, and gave space for people to be themselves. It taught me how to build with feeling and how powerful true collaboration can be,” he continued.

Risso expanded upon Castiglioni’s legacy with a craft-geared ethos, taking the founders’ expressive color and texture to the next level and introducing the label to a new generation. Risso’s chunky knitwear, bohemian florals, and reworked sensibilities connected with younger luxury audiences with more directional tastes. His neon furry mules, ultra-plush mohair cardigans, and hand-illustrated and painted garments proved a hit with Gen Z and Millennials, facilitating collaborations with Yeezy vet Dingyun Zhang, Carhartt WIP, and even R&B legend Erykah Badu.

The appointment completes a round of changes at parent company OTB Group, which owns Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, and more. Following Glenn Martens’ exit from Y/Project last year, the designer who also heads Diesel went full OTB by joining Maison Margiela as John Galliano‘s replacement. In February, Lucie and Luke Meier departed from Jil Sander, and Simone Bellotti was tapped for their replacement in March.

The reintroduction of a female perspective at the brand could evoke nostalgia from Marni die-hards who have missed Castiglioni’s distinct vision. Castiglioni only introduced Marni’s mens line in 2006, before which the brand had focused on its original womens line. Rumors suggest that Virginie Viard, who left Chanel last year, or Maria Grazie Chiuri, who left Dior weeks ag,o could take the helm. However, their specialty in traditional luxury and couture informed aesthetics makes the two less of a match for the young Italian house.

By setting its sights further than directors from other major luxury houses, Marni could continue developing its distinct identity with the vision of a newcomer. A young and independent name like Martine Rose is an ideal candidate, with her offbeat references, colorful palette, and at times whimsical design details. For example, Marni’s pillow-like pastel-hued Hoka runners echo Rose’s inflated and candy-colored footwear designs for Clarks. The British designer’s cult following could bring the excitement needed to boost the conglomerate’s appeal amidst the luxury slowdown’s headwinds.

Is it possible that OTB Group could opt out of the echo chamber that’s kept the same creative directors in rotation?

As of the time of writing, Marni has yet to confirm a replacement for Risso. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights.