Thom Browne Pre-Fall 2025 Is a Renewed Exploration of Classic Tailoring

Highlighting precise tailoring and an interplay of proportions.

Fashion
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Following a strong Met Gala 2025 showing, Thom Browne reveals its Pre-Fall 2025 collection which continues the designer’s exploration of sartorial codes, presenting a meticulously crafted offering that simultaneously embraces and subverts traditional menswear and womenswear archetypes. Through the lens of Thom Browne, classic tailoring is dissected, reassembled and imbued with the designer’s signature theatricality and meticulous construction.

The collection showcases a strong emphasis on sculptural silhouettes. Speaking to Vogue, the designer said of his new Pre-Fall collection, “The most important thing is for people to see that the collection and the business are evolving in the strongest way—to not take away from what people have always appreciated about my collections.” Shoulders are exaggerated, often sharply defined or dramatically rounded, creating a powerful and almost architectural frame while trousers range from precisely tailored and cropped to boldly voluminous, playing with proportion and challenging conventional forms. Skirts and dresses adopt similarly structured shapes, often incorporating unexpected pleats, folds, and pannier-like details that create striking three-dimensional effects.

There’s an athletic take on Thom Browne’s usual tailoring, bringing forward mesh basketball jerseys with the No. 65 to mark the designer’s birth year. He said of combining tailoring and sportswear, “I really feel like the tailoring could be sportswear as much as the sportswear can be tailoring.” Other notable pieces include the suede denim jacket and mohair tweed work shirt which sees the designer experiment further with softer materials. Take a look at the full collection above.

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