As ever, Roseberry pushed the boundaries of what clothing can be, leaning forever closer to the art world as he has done time and time again. Like art, fashion is subjective, and not everybody likes the same thing; something the designer has had to face per its Spring 2023 couture show that featured faux animal heads, subsequently causing a viral amount of negativity. However, for Fall 2023, Schiaparelli circled in on its craft, leaving no stone unturned.
With a collection modeled by industry titans such as Tanya Dziahileva and Magdalena Frąckowiak, and a front row lined with Cardi B, Violet Chachki, Tracee Ellis Ross, Xenia Adonts, Vogue Australia Editor-in-Chief Christine Centenera, Emily in Paris‘ Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, Nicky Hilton, Amina Muaddi, Vogue Japan Editor-at-Large Anna Dello Russo, Gwendoline Christie, and Vittoria Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson, the granddaughter to the House’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, the show was set to be yet another masterclass in Haute Couture artistry.
Indeed, Roseberry debuted 30 looks each centered around themes of true art. International Klein Blue, first mixed by the French artist Yves Klein, came within a collection featuring painted models and allusions to Alberto Giacometti’s sculptures, standing tall and ethereal. Black diamond embellishments formed trompe-l’œil sculptures of Venetian statues on a cream coat, with its darts, pleats, and collar all echoing the gravitas of a marble figure.
The drama continued, with Schiaparelli’s signature goldwork creating surrealist body part adornments sitting atop Parisian-chic mini coats, or encompassing necklines and the clavicle in opulence. The collection delivered everything from traditional corsetry to that conceptual International Klein Blue ensemble, centered around a skirt that ballooned and undulated like a large leaf in the wind. A woodland creature in the form of loose knots of cashmere presented itself like fur, but contrasted the surreal wooden hand necklace that hung low at the front, while nature was evoked by a blazer and pencil skirt crafted from gold pebbles.
In complete contrast, hyper-modern silhouettes served in silver bead shawls or classic Little Black Dresses promised another side to Schiaparelli, one informed by the high-end socialities you’d typically find wearing such artistry.
Take a look at Schiaparelli Fall 2023 Couture in the gallery above.
Elsewhere, here is all the SS24 coverage you may have missed from last month.