9 Emerging AAPI Designers You Need to Know
A new wave of talent is ready to take over.
In fashion’s global melting pot of emerging designers, there’s an overhaul of talent that has yet to be touched. While a picketed path to success would be ideal, that’s simply not feasible for the industry’s overflow of rising visionaries. Instead, those looking to “make it” must first rely on their skills and second on their fortitude — because the journey requires an unrelenting commitment to longevity. In Asia and the Pacific Islands, many up-and-comers possess both attributes.
Prominent Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) designers, like Rei Kawakubo, Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto have played a crucial role in establishing the route to global fashion’s pinnacle for younger generations on the continent. But as many of the aforementioned leaders continue to create space in new design territories, a new legion of creatives is ready to follow — all with new stories, fresh takes on their heritage and unique perspectives on what exactly contemporary AAPI fashion can look like.
In the spirit of championing next-generation voices, Hypebeast has rounded up nine emerging AAPI designers you need to know.
Perte D’ego
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Hailing from New Delhi, India, fashion label Perte D’ego operates with a penchant for artisanal craftsmanship. The brand, governed by creative director Utkarsh Mithas, steers away from outsourcing to factories for manufacturing and instead hires expert craftspeople on permanent contracts to produce each collection in its own studio. Overall, the imprint leans heavily into vintage inspirations, with its latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection lending a sartorial lens to the designer’s fond childhood memories and summer adventures.
BULAN
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BULAN, helmed by Beam Rachapol Ngaongam, was founded in 2020, with a vision of changing the knitwear industry and “the idea of knitwear being outdated and boring.” From Bangkok, Thailand, Ngaongam earned a BFA at the Academy of Art University, where he specialized in men’s knitwear, and he was later named a top emerging talent by the CFDA in 2019. These days, Ngaongam’s brand sets itself apart with highly-experimental knit garments, many of which enlist polyester, acrylic fiber and merino wool.
Abakada
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Abakada is a fashion label looking to celebrate the heritage of its Filipino design team. With each limited-edition collection, the brand seeks to create “para sa kultura,” a Baybayin pre-colonial script in the Philippines meaning, “for the culture.” Blending modern elements of streetwear and contemporary design, the imprint’s designs oftentimes exude a playful persona, never failing to center their cultural inspirations.
XU ZHI
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Shanghai designer Chen Xuzhi has been in the game for quite some time, boasting a resume that includes a BA in fashion design from Central Saint Martens and stints at both JW Anderson and Craig Green. The designer founded his label, Xu Zhi, in 2014, with an innovative approach to both textile constructions that earned him nominations for the LVMH and International Woolmark prizes in 2016. Today, his designs are lauded for their high-level materials, deconstructed tailoring and visually-appealing color pairings.
AO YES
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AO YES is a fresh face on the Shanghai Fashion Week calendar. The brand’s designers, Austin Wang and Yansong Liu, captured the local fashion scene’s attention for their forward-minded approach to traditional Chinese dressing. Self-described as an “Oriental Fashion Brand,” AO YES lets the past and present collide, merging contemporary design processes and storied textiles to tear down the boundaries between traditional luxury fashion and Chinese culture.
BLACKMERLE
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Led by designer Terry Shin, BLACKMERLE is a South Korean fashion label boasting an unorthodox approach to maximalist dressing. Operating out of Seoul, the brand’s name is defined as such: “a dark-coated dog with irregular streaks and species.” That, alone, should provide some context for Shin’s abstract vision, but if you needed some more concrete examples, BLACKMERLE is best known for its expressive outerwear — namely, reconstructed bombers, military parkas, track jackets and workwear outers.
ISLA Project
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Born in Manila, Philippines, ISLA Project does more than just create eye-catching wares. The brand looks to give back to its homeland communities through volunteer opportunities and charity-driven efforts, with a portion of its proceeds going to various causes in the Philippines. Now operating out of Los Angles, ISLA is known for its high-quality materials, its bold iconography and its streetwear-driven design ethos.
Lu’u Dan
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Founded by designer Hung La in 2021, Lu’u Dan is a Vietnamese fashion brand rooted in the “nuances of Asian identity and its evolution,” The name, which is derived from the Vietnamese words for “pomegranate” and “bullet,” derives itself from the colloquial term for a “dangerous man.” Making heritage-inspired references, the label looks to yield new depth and visibility for Asian individuals by creating a new legacy and, at times, breaking free from tradition.
DEMO
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Hong Kong designer Derek Chan founded DEMO in 2014, with the goal of striking a balance between “contemporary classics” and sartorial traditions. Dismantling gender norms, the brand embeds a “soft masculinity” aesthetic into its cuts, with handmade embellishments, custom embroidery and rich textiles, including tweed and fine knits. Overall, DEMO aims to subvert stereotypes and champion gender fluidity by enlisting traditional materials in ways that defy expectations.
