For his latest “Holy Grails” video, IcyKof from The Unknown Vlogs visited ENDYMA‘s fashion archive in Berlin which houses the biggest Helmut Lang collection in the world. After making his way up a carpeted staircase, IcyKof is greeted by a cozy multi-room space filled to the brim with racks of neatly-organized clothing — including vintage Helmut Lang as well as obsessively selected pieces from other iconic brands.
The tour starts at a room for restorations, where new pieces that come in are touched up and repaired before going to a neighboring studio room where all of the pieces are recorded in a way relevant to fashion designers. “We take these photos and try to make them very symmetric, and very flat-looking because it’s about the design as opposed to the fit,” says ENDYMA.
The tour then heads to the main Helmut Lang archive room, the most extensive in the world. Garments are split into color families and further into typologies which the archivist illustrates with the progression of a sleeveless top to a normal-looking tank top.
“Helmut Lang is a really good brand in the sense that you meet a designer now and they have this exciting idea that’s theirs but they need to keep making new things when the market needs something new to absorb, blah, blah, blah, but this guy is designing the same thing over and over again for years!” Says ENDYMA.
Contrary to the current speed of consumption in which new ideas need to be introduced at light-speed for the market to absorb, he goes on to explain that the uniformity of the pieces makes it a lot of fun to gather as it’s kind of like the evolution of dinosaurs in that the pieces are kind of the same from season to season, yet slightly different. ENDYMA then goes on to introduce pieces from other clothing racks which hold jackets for the “menswear bros” such as the famous Winter ‘03 bomber jacket with elastic elements, other historic ready-to-wear pieces, a black section with leather pieces, and a series of asymmetric tanks ENDYMA describes as both some of Helmut Lang’s most important works and his “YOLO” phase.
The tour finishes at another archive room where Helmut Lang bags, jeans, and small accessories such as pencil cases, cigarette holders, finger harnesses, and multiple iterations of Helmut Lang’s signature handcuff bracelets are held.
“I’m kind of flexing on you at this stage, these are kind of difficult to find,” ENDYMA cheekily says of the bracelets.
For those that wish to purchase pieces from the archive, ENDYMA is currently holding a shoppable installation at ANDREAS MURKUDIS 81 in Berlin which will run until September 10.
ANDREAS MURKUDIS 81
Potsdamer Str. 81, 10785,
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