Cartier is known for many things, but in recent years its range of vintage watches has become a must-have for those in the know in both the fashion and horology worlds. Over the years, we’ve seen Kanye West don the Salvador Dalí-esque Cartier Crash, while legends such as Andy Warhol, Steve McQueen, Muhammad Ali, and Princess Diana were all known for wearing the quintessential Tank by Cartier. Now, you can join that exclusive club thanks to Harry Fane of Obsidian Gallery fame and Dover Street Market London, as the two have come together to commission six rare and vintage Cartier timepieces in both men’s and women’s styles.
Leading the pack is a c.1980 Cartier Diamond Tank Wristwatch, which sees the iconic Tank design complete with À Bords Arrondis (with rounded edges) and a body crafted from 18k yellow gold. On top of this is a body encrusted with diamonds — a stylistic choice popular in the late ’60s and onwards — and a diamond winder. The impeccably presented model is finished with a dark brown crocodile-embossed leather strap, and is rounded out by its blue hands that are a signature of the Cartier brand.
Joining this is the Cartier Tank “Automatique,” also known as the “Tank Jumbo.” It was the first Tank to feature an automatic movement and is distinguished by its bump on the rear case that houses the movement without compromising its timeless elegance, and stands as a rare timepiece in the Cartier legacy. Made exclusively in the 1970s, this iteration comes straight out of 1975 and is the most expensive on offer from Harry Fane and DSML, costing approximately $26,000 USD.
Elsewhere, we see other slices of history such as the Cartier/Piaget Tank Wristwatch. In the ’60s and ’70s, Cartier teamed up with other watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet, Bueche Girod, Vacheron Constantin, and in this case, Piaget, in a bid to combine the two house’s aesthetics and broaden its client reach — as you know, watch fans are loyal to their favorite brands.
Rounding out the selection is a Cartier Lady’s Tank LC Wristwatch, which comes from 1975 but even to this day the design remains unchanged since it first released in 1922. There’s also a London-produced Cartier Baignoire from 1972 that’s distinguished by its unique 18k gold oval shape, beaded winder with a sapphire cabochon, and blued “Èpée” hands. Lastly, Harry Fane and DSML offer a Cartier Lady’s Blue Enamel And Gold Bracelet Wristwatch, also known as the “Petite Tank Rectangle.”
In case you missed it, check out HYPEBEAST’s Behind the HYPE on the Patek Phillipe Nautilus.