British designer Martine Rose continued her unyielding ascension within the fashion industry in 2019. Her Napapajiri collaboration reintroducing ultra-popular floral fleeces sold out in prior seasons, while Rose’s eponymous label continued shaking up the norms of conventional fashion (see: Spring/Summer 2019’s square toe shoes).

June’s Spring/Summer 2020 show exemplified Rose’s thoughtful craft, channeling the encroaching fear of Brexit by updating signature motifs: boxy tailoring, stylized branding, “things worn inside out, upside down, back to front”, and adding thematic graphics. “I did lots of cartoon prints and clowns that feel sort of playful, but sinister as well,” she told HYPEBEAST. Perhaps most notably, Rose debuted her Nike collaboration this year, though it was announced and teased in 2018. Abetted by revamped tracksuits, Rose’s shiny, bulbous Air Monarch was an ultra-divisive hit, manifesting her repurposed anti-fashion tenets into a wearable sculpture. Capping the year with a British Fashion Council Awards nomination seemed inevitable.