Theophilio FW25 Tailors Black Style
Titled “Morning After,” Jamaican designer Edvin Thompson’s latest fashion manifesto is largely inspired by his father’s wardrobe — and the results are quite well-suited for this year’s Met Gala theme.
“The irony!” exclaimed the Jamaican Theophilio designer Edvin Thompson from the 17th floor of New York’s arty WSA Building, where he’s set up an intimate showroom for his tailoring-focused Fall/Winter 2025 collection, titled “The Morning After.” “The concept behind this line was developed before the Met Gala theme ["Superfine: Tailoring Black Style"] was announced, so when I saw that, I was like, ‘Okay, somebody must be watching.’”
On an iPad in the corner of the showroom, Thompson had photographs of his father’s best outfits and grand hats—all of them expertly and sometimes whimsically tailored—on the mood board for the modern Theophilio man. “I really wanted to focus on tailoring this collection’s menswear, leaning into the Theophilio guy because I feel like he’s been left behind a little bit in past seasons,” Thompson said.
As a result, his menswear was rich in personality: newsboy hats ballooned casually over wool trucker jackets and leather trousers, while ribbed knit polos hugged the body over flaring wool pants. Lime green corsetted button-ups and pants were quite electric next to a pinstripe single-breasted blazer and dress trousers in stark white. It was all powerfully statement-making, and when you viewed each of the looks on the same male model in the lookbook, you couldn’t help but take note of their collective shapeshifting powers. “Transformative,” Thompson called the line in one word. That it was.
Given their likeness, it’s likely that we’ll see one (or a few!) of Theophilio’s latest cuts climb the Met Gala steps this first Monday in May. “It’s crazy to think that all of this was developed prior to knowing the theme that we would be celebrating,” Thompson added with a clear excitement about fashion’s forthcoming biggest night. “It’s wild!” His lucky muse is still unknown; but if one thing’s for certain, they’ll nail the theme.
See Theophilio’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more New York Fashion Week coverage.
