Martine Rose x #BEENTRILL# 2015 Fall/Winter Collection

London menswear designer Martine Rose’s work mixes urban and traditional silhouettes together,

By
Fashion
613 Hypes 0 Comments

London menswear designer Martine Rose‘s work mixes urban and traditional silhouettes together, which fringes upon both the beautiful and the strange. ”My work is always about the outsider,” she says; “I really want to generate something beautiful and interesting… and I feel like that comes when something isn’t quite right.” Dazed & Confused recently sat down with Rose to discuss being a designer in London, her past influences, and working on the collaborative 2015 Fall/Winter collection with the fashion, music and art collective, #BEENTRILL#. While her previous collections have alluded to her past with London’s early rave scene, skinhead romances and underground leather, BDSM subcultures, Rose cites that the upcoming #BEENTRILL# collection has different influences and deviates from her usual work. “With this collection it was more about looking back at all the characters I’ve used previously,” she says, which includes the likes of geniuses Mark E. Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe. Excerpts from the interview are below, and you can head over to Dazed & Confused for the full interview.

How did you approach this collection?

It was an organic conversation with #BEENTRILL# – we were introduced by Kim Jones, and started speaking about music, and our references and starting points all seemed to be the same. We were looking at the crusty scene, which was a big influence for me for AW 14 – that sort of ‘raver in a field’ silhouette. The collection has that feeling about it, but it feels more polished and very sportswear. It’s a sporty crusty ravey type vibe!

Patches seem to be something that you return to…

Patches are so…unintentional, they aren’t something I try to own or that I try to bring in each season, but it’s a way that I communicate… they are a way of showing your colours. I was a competitive swimmer until I was a teenager, so we had these swimming costumes that were completely covered in badges, almost like an armour – I’m quite obsessed with the idea of achievements. I like things that don’t necessarily fit together, when there’s something a bit jarring. So sometimes if there is a coherence to the look, adding a few badges that just say odd things can throw it off.

It’s interesting that as a designer, you’re so willing to look back into your own archive when there can be so much pressure to create something new.

I think designers need to get the balance right. I think it’s our job to do a little bit of both, to acknowledge the past and at the same time try and communicate it in a new way. I think that the idea that we’re going to do something new is a fantasy really. At the end of the day the trousers have got to have two legs and the top – there are certain things that we have to abide by. I guess I’m a nostalgic person, and it always comes back to influences that I’ve experienced or that feel like a memory to me, but innovation has to be mixed with that.

How did you approach the lookbook?

The style is all really new, I haven’t shot images like these before, because it’s outside. Even though the silhouette feels familiar and the fabrications feel familiar, the whole collaboration feels really new. It was street cast and again, this boy is just beautiful – oddly beautiful. He really captured the feeling of the collection, of a slightly grown out skinhead, raver person.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Martine Rose Returns With SS21 "Beermat" Collection
Fashion

Martine Rose Returns With SS21 "Beermat" Collection

Reworking classic logos into a beer-inspired all over print.

Martine Rose Redefines Classic Menswear Ideas in SS21 Collection
Fashion

Martine Rose Redefines Classic Menswear Ideas in SS21 Collection

The new lookbook mixes inspiration from football culture, business suits and San Francisco in the 1970s.

Martine Rose's SS21 Floral Pieces Are Here to Save Summer
Fashion

Martine Rose's SS21 Floral Pieces Are Here to Save Summer

Vintage prints meet Hawaiian design cues, samurai artwork, and branded calligraphy.


htown Spotlights New Pieces From Martine Rose, Ahluwalia and More in New Editorial
Fashion

htown Spotlights New Pieces From Martine Rose, Ahluwalia and More in New Editorial

Marking the retailer’s SS21 launch.

New Balance for J.Crew 2015 Spring/Summer 996
Footwear

New Balance for J.Crew 2015 Spring/Summer 996

In what has become a seasonal mainstay, New Balance and fellow American outfit J.Crew align once

Grailed.com is Your Destination for Secondhand Menswear
Fashion

Grailed.com is Your Destination for Secondhand Menswear

For men looking for specific items in the secondhand market, there has always existed options such

TNGHT - Acrylics (RL Grime Edit)
Music 

TNGHT - Acrylics (RL Grime Edit)

RL Grime has finally shared a popular edit of TNGHT’s “Acrylics” with an eager-to-download public.


Audio Push featuring OG Maco - Heavy
Music 

Audio Push featuring OG Maco - Heavy

Two sides of the map join as one as the HS87 and OGG/Quality Control camps link up for “Heavy.”

JMSN - My Way
Music 

JMSN - My Way

As JMSN’s The Blue Album continues to marinate in minds and on MP3s everywhere, the Detroit/LA

adidas Originals' '#OriginalSuperstar' Commercial Features Pharrell, Rita Ora & More
Music 

adidas Originals' '#OriginalSuperstar' Commercial Features Pharrell, Rita Ora & More

adidas Originals’ have unveiled an #OriginalSuperstar commercial featuring a laundry list of

More ▾
 
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Adblock Detected.

We charge advertisers instead of our readers. If you enjoy our content, please add us to your adblocker's whitelist. We'd really appreciated it.