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At Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche mixed formal and informal to the upbeat sounds of Pet Shop Boys. The minimal, tailored looks and high-low combinations — shaded in a muted palette of burgundy and black — may have been expected, but spring’s real surprise was choice. From boxy-cut suits to elongated silhouettes and athletic fits, there was a focus on “lots of choice within an idea,” a concept that was echoed in the finale’s mirrored maze, along with the infinite possibilities presented by geometric patchworks.

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