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Junichi Abe’s aspiration every season is “sophisticated comfort,” with soft tailoring in unique cuts and fits and custom Japanese fabrics often forming the backbone of Kolor‘s collections. For Fall/Winter 2013, however, the looks were more structured than ever — the COMME des GARCONS alumni’s famously casual jackets showcased rigidity and construction in their color-blocked forms while waistcoats and hand-stitched seams also featured prominently among the pieces. This being a Kolor collection, there was balance to the tailoring, with enough bold, tri-colored sweaters, double-up quilted down and voluminously-cut pants to temper the season’s more sartorial elements.